Lifeguards kept busy by huge south swells

By Will Hoover and Mike Gordon
Advertiser Staff Writers

The surfing career of Ann Donnelly of Lincoln, Neb., began in Waikiki yesterday at 2:06 p.m. and ended 32 minutes later when lifeguard Pake Ah Mow hauled her to shore on the back of his personal watercraft.

Experienced surfers rejoiced while novices took a beating as high waves hit O'ahu's south shore yesterday. Beach boys reported brisk business at the popular surf break Canoes, near the Duke Kahanamoku statue. Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

Donnelly said the experience was "cool," she had a good time, and that her first time ever on a surfboard would also be her last.

"No!" she said emphatically. "I won't be going out again. I'm done. Probably forever."

Donnelly was one of more than 100 wanna-be surfers who were assisted out of the ocean yesterday as the south swell forecast earlier this week arrived with a vengeance, bringing what lifeguard Jude Parker described as "strong surf, with 8- to 10-foot faces. And these waves are supposed to get even bigger."

These were south shore waves to be attempted only by the experienced, as far as Parker was concerned.

"I was out there myself on my break, and got pounded," said Parker, who staffed Waikiki's 2B lifeguard stand. "These people come to Waikiki and maybe surf once a year."

Seconds after he spoke, Parker spotted Donnelly beginning her surfing adventure as she paddled out toward Canoes surf break.

By the time she was brought to shore, Ah Mow and his partner, Ian Forester, had plucked more than 125 people from the waves.

Ah Mow said he and Forester had helped entire families back to shore. Forester predicted the count would pass the 200 mark by sundown.

"I must have pulled in 40 or 50 out right in the beginning," Forester said. "We're supposed to keep track, but it's hard when there's so many. It's just like a merry-go-round."

Forester said the majority of those hauled to shore were not injured, just relieved to be out of the fierce waters. One woman who was cut by a surfboard fin had to be taken to a hospital.

Surf instructor Daniel Kekahuna with C&K Beachboy Services said, "Most tourists think this is the way it is all the time here. It could be dangerous, but we don't go out that far. We take them to Baby Queens, which is a little smaller wave with a little less current. We stay on the inside of the break."

Plus, Kekahuna said, he and his fellow beach boys don't go out with more than three students per instructor.

Long wait over

Honolulu Ocean Safety Officer Pake Ah Mow brings Ann Donnelly of Lincoln, Neb., in from the high waves off Kuhio Beach after she ventured out too far. It was Donnelly's first time surfing — and probably her last, she said. Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser

"We've been waiting for the summer swell, actually," said Jennifer Nuesca, who was renting out boards for C&K at $8 for the first hour. "We kind of ask them if they know how to surf. And if kids are going out, we ask that a parent go out with them."

For veteran surfers, it was cause for celebration all along the south shore. Wave faces up to 10 feet or more were expected to last through noon today before gradually subsiding tomorrow.

At Kewalos mid-morning, every parking space was taken. Surfers headed out smiling in anticipation of the occasional overhead sets.

"The only reason I have to come in is because I have to pick up my wife from surgery," said Gary Akiona, 57, of Honolulu. "Today was good. There are lots of waves for everyone."

Surfers on the south shore live for summer days like this, and the mood was good, Akiona said — "lots of hootin' and hollerin'."

Fun, fun, fun

Surfer Pake Salmon of Makaha rejoices at the showers after a fun surfing session off Kewalo Basin. RIchard Ambo • The Honolulu Advertiser

"It was fun, fun, very fun," said Pang, who planned to be back in the water later in the day.

Pat Caldwell, a surf forecaster for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, said wave faces could reach 12 to 16 feet at some locations.

Caldwell said the swell's direction favored breaks in town, and could produce much better surf than the last significant swell, which pounded shores in April.

"This is going to be good," said Caldwell, who also advised beginners to avoid the extreme conditions.

"The forward momentum of the wave is so much faster," he said. "You need to be much more skilled in your timing for catching it. When it moves this fast and hits the reef, it jacks up a lot."

Reach Will Hoover at whoover@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-8038. Reach Mike Gordon at mgordon@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-8012.