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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Friday, July 30, 2004

Variety makes it tough to tire of tea

By Shawn Sell
USA Today

Perhaps it's time for a spot of tea. Whether you're a purist who insists on perfect-temp brewing or a hip bubble-tea aficionado, taking tea — in all its incarnations — has never been more timely or trendy. Tea time is really about creating your special time, says tea expert and lecturer Bruce Richardson, owner of Elmwood Inn Fine Teas in Perryville, Ky., and author of several books, including "The Tea Table" and "The Great Tea Rooms of America " (Benjamin Press). "Tea is an affordable luxury that brings out the best in people," Richardson says. His thoughts on the subject follow.

Q. Some call tea "the new coffee." Would you agree with that?

A. Tea is indeed increasing in popularity, but tea and coffee (and their roles in people's lives) are viewed so differently that it's more accurate to call it the new wine. It can be enjoyed quietly and deliberately, much like wine, and the terminology we use to describe tea and tea tastings is very similar to that used by wine experts.

Q. Why is there such a continued interest in tea?

A. Tea brings serenity to people's lives. When Americans talk about tea, they invariably think about English tea, but tea in English history is fairly new when you consider that important tea customs in China and Buddhism go back several thousand years. Even now, the taking of tea can be almost a religious thing; people come to it seeking something for their stomachs but leave with their souls refreshed.

Q. How does tea do that?

A. Tea makes you slow down; it brings people together. Think about the time spent waiting for tea to brew, enjoying the aroma, fixing it the way you like, sipping it while thinking or talking or nibbling a little savory. I don't think there is any other beverage that does this relaxing thing for people. And there is no other beverage, other than water, that is just so ubiquitous or consumed more. Tea is now in so many forms, it's fun to see what's out there as you try that bubble tea and the hip new chai drinks (spiced milk tea), hot and cold.

Q. What is the latest tea trend?

A. White tea (a rare steamed tea produced from full-grown buds of a special variety of tea bush) is gaining in popularity, and sales are up 18 percent from last year as it is being incorporated in many cosmetics. As a drink, it is the purest of all tea because there is no oxidation of the tea plant. It also has many health benefits. It's high in antioxidants and lower in caffeine than black tea.

Q. What exactly is the difference between black and white and green tea?

A. Bruising (processing and fermenting) green tea makes black tea. And the purest form of white tea comes from picking unopened blossoms (buds). It has become so popular that they're growing more of it, which may help its steep price. The two best known are Silver Needle and also a white tea from the Darjeeling region (of India).

Q. Will this replace the green-tea craze?

A. It won't replace it, but it's another option from another family of teas.

Q. For the tea neophyte, what kind of tea do you recommend?

A. First, you have to find a time of day you like it. Morning means a stronger cup, maybe an Irish blend or English breakfast from the Assam region of India, which holds up to milk. For the afternoon, tea from Darjeeling is perfect with cookies or tea sandwiches, or try a Nepalese tea, which is spectacular tea. For evening after dinner, choose something lower in caffeine, such as white tea or decaf.

Q. How do you know if a tea is a good one?

A. It's all about what you like. When I buy a chest of tea from Darjeeling, grown 2,000 to 6,500 feet up, the taste depends on elevation and other factors. And tea picked on one day tastes different when picked on another.

Q. Any last thoughts on tea?

A. Temperature is one of the basics because temperature really does matter. When discussing green tea, lots of people come to me and say, 'I tried it and I don't like it.' The problem is that you should never put boiling water on green, although always on black.