Posted on: Wednesday, June 2, 2004

Grilling is a hunk of burnin' love

•	What wines go with grilling? Plenty!
•	Morocco or Mexico? Ay, there's the rub
•	Grilling IS something you can learn in books
•	Safe outdoor grilling begins with selecting the right spot
•	Really get smokin' with more than the hot coals
•	You decide: Gas or charcoal grill?
•	Oh boy meets grill: Gadgets for your backyard burner

By Karen Fernau
Arizona Republic

A grilling basket keeps fish from disintegrating while it cooks over coals. Gannett News Service Great grilling Choose the best equipment: heavy cast iron rather than light aluminum; removable and enameled parts for easy cleaning; multiple controls or a cover and draft to allow heat control. Always oil the grill and food to prevent sticking; use cooking sprays. Pre-heat the grill. Charcoal is ready when almost all the coals are ashy gray. Gas grills take just minutes to heat. Drain off oily marinades to prevent flare-ups. Cut food into uniform pieces to assure even doneness. Cook breasts of chicken, whole fish and other uneven cuts in two steps: Sear or mark them over hot fire, then move them to a cooler part of the grill. Wrap in foil, if desired. To create a cool spot when cooking with charcoal, stack and fire coals all on one side of the grill. Sear food over this hot spot, then move to the other side for slower finishing. To create a cool spot with a gas grill, turn off one set of burners, turn down heat, foil-wrap food or place in a disposable aluminum pan with foil cover after food is seared. Metal skewers help dense food, such as whole potatoes, cook through by transferring heat to the interior. Soak wooden skewers in water for half an hour before using, to prevent them from burning. Keep a spray bottle of water nearby to douse flare-ups. — Advertiser staff and news services

What's so tough about grilling? Light the coals or turn on the gas and put the food on, right?

But it can be difficult to get the right degree of doneness without the food becoming dry and charred.

Cases in point are three common cuts. Here's how to get them right:

Chicken breasts

Boneless, skinless chicken breasts are grill favorites because they are lean and cook in minutes. Begin by rinsing the meat in cool, running water, then drying with paper towels. Marinate chicken for 30 minutes or coat in a dry rub. Pre-heat grill to high. Spray or rub oil on the grill and allow to heat. Sear both sides of the raw meat on an open grill to seal in moisture. Close the grill to create an ovenlike environment that helps cook the meat through. Cook inch-thick chicken breasts about 12 to 16 minutes.

T-bone steaks

T-bones are tender cuts of steak and ideal for the grill. They require only your favorite seasonings, such as garlic salt and pepper, or a dry herb rub. Add rubs and seasonings just before grilling. Trim excess fat from the steak to avoid flare-ups. Heat grill to high and sear both sides of the steak, about two minutes each side. Reduce heat to medium, which ensures even cooking. For turning, use long-handled tongs — not a fork, which will pierce the beef and cause a loss of flavorful juices. Grill uncovered 14 to 16 minutes or until internal temperature reaches at least 145 degrees, or medium rare.

Salmon

Salmon is a quick grill choice. A whole fillet can be cooked in less than 20 minutes. Brush the salmon with olive oil to prevent sticking, or marinate in an oil-based sauce. Heat the grill to high. Grill salmon, uncovered, about five minutes per side. Baste both sides during grilling with additional olive oil.

One final word: Always allow meat or fish to rest, covered lightly with a tent of foil, for 3-4 minutes before serving, allowing juices that have risen to the surface to settle back into the tissues.

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What wines go with grilling? Plenty!

In an arena where beer usually rules, here are a few great wine choices to sneak into your next barbecue. Grilled foods scream for lighter wines with enough stuffing to balance the charred, smoky flavors.

These wine suggestions work with the dash-of-salt or marinade methods. See the accompanying box for barbecue sauce pairings.

Prices will vary by region.

Salmon

Grilled salmon is healthful, doesn't dry out when cooked on a fire, and it can be paired with reds, whites or dry rosés. Try these:

• 2002 Erath Pinot Noir, Oregon (about $14). A slightly chilled pinot noir becomes fresh and drinkable. Erath is one of the godfathers of Oregon winemaking, a pioneer for the pinot noir grape there. The aroma is very sexy and lush with a whisper of cinnamon. A great all-around pinot.
• 1998 McDowell Vineyards Grenache Rosé, California (about $11). A dry rosé is one of the most exciting and value-savvy grill wines out there. The aromas and flavors are of soft dried strawberry, with enough acidity to finish with a zip.

Chicken

Grilled chicken sprinkled with lemon and olive oil is one of my favorite spring dishes. Chardonnay works well with most grilled chicken.

• 2002 Penfolds Koonunga Hills Chardonnay, Australia (about $13). There's a hint of toasty oak, a touch of green apple and a refreshing finish.
• 2002 Macon-Burgy "En Chatelaine," Verget, France (about $16). A more fully flavored wine than the Penfolds, 100 percent chardonnay from France. (Chardonnays from Burgundy generally match better with food because of their higher natural acidity.).

Steak

Grilled steak is classic outdoor fare, and the easiest to pair with wine. For a perfect match find a big red with loads of fruit and a dry finish.

• 2001 Paringa Shiraz, South Australia (about $13). The wines of South Australia are hugely popular today, and for good reason — they have warm, ripe flavors and offer great values. The Paringa has a touch of spice, red earth and cocoa powder in the nose.
• 2001 Rock River Merlot, California (about $14). This is a wine bursting with flavor and aroma. The kicker is a touch of chocolate-covered cherry.

Shrimp

Grilled shrimp is tasty but tricky to cook. The key is to keep them moving on the grill and to cook them for only five minutes. Light whites with a little tanginess do well with shrimp.

• 2002 Taltarni Sauvignon Blanc, Australia (about $13). Very simple and tasty, it captures the essence of sauvignon blanc with the grapefruit tartness, and adds a little spritz and a hint of smoke.

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Morocco or Mexico? Ay, there's the rub

Americans love their grills more than ever, according to a 2004 survey by Weber, the maker of backyard grills. The majority, 72 percent, of those surveyed prefer grilling outdoors to cooking inside.

We're also gobbling ethnic foods. One out of every seven U.S. food dollars in the next decade will be spent on ethnic foods, an all-time high, says one industry group.

"We are a grilling nation, and are embracing the ethnicization of the American grill," says Steve Raichlen, grill guru and author of "The Barbecue Bible" (Workman, $19.95). "We want big, bold flavors of the ethnic foods we eat in restaurants off our grills."

This summer's trendiest grill favorites will be Latin, Asian and African, he predicts.

Grilling of ethnic foods requires more thought and ingredients than the standard garlic powder and seasoned salt combo. Choose from a mix of spices, including cumin, cardamom and turmeric, or marinade ingredients such as olive oil, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, grapeseed oil and fresh juices.

Here are a few simple examples of rubs and marinades:

For a Moroccan rub: Combine one-half cup chopped cilantro, four cloves minced garlic, one tablespoon paprika, two teaspoons ginger, two teaspoons salt, one teaspoon cumin, one-half teaspoon turmeric and two tablespoons paprika with one-half cup olive oil.

For a Mediterranean rub: Mix three tablespoons cracked black peppercorns, three tablespoons cumin seed, two tablespoons turmeric, one tablespoon ground cardamom and one tablespoon ground coriander.

For an Asian marinade: Mix one-fourth cup orange juice, one-fourth cup teriyaki sauce and one-half teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes.

For a Mexican marinade: Combine one-half cup vegetable oil, one-fourth cup fresh lime juice, two tablespoons minced garlic, one-fourth cup apple cider vinegar and one teaspoon ground cumin.

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Grilling IS something you can learn in books

Regional experts share techniques:

"Grilling and Barbecuing" by Denis Kelly; Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003. Ever wonder why barbecue in North Carolina means a type of roasted meat, but in Connecticut or California, it refers to an outdoor party? In "Grilling and Barbecuing," a finalist for the 2004 James Beard awards, Kelly explores how outdoor cooking varies from region to region across the United States. He traces American barbecue as far back as 1705 Virginia, where colonists learned from American Indians the technique of cooking on a rack over hot coals. Along with the history, you get tips about modern-day technique and equipment. Recipes such as chili-bourbon sirloin steak or Kentucky-style slow-smoked lamb shoulder are inventive and enticing without being difficult or frou-frou.

"Taste of Home's Grilling Recipe Collection"; Reiman Media Group, 2004. Folks familiar with Taste of Home magazine will recognize this cookbook's format, a compilation of recipes from readers around the United States and Canada. With sections for beef, poultry, pork and seafood, plus chapters on sides and desserts, this is real food, made by real people, easy to re-create at home.

"How to Grill" by Steven Raichlen; Workman, 2004. The acknowledged king of fire offers recipes of every possible cut of meat or fish, every vegetable (including a whole cabbage), plus innovative techniques and how-tos, often using everyday items rather than requiring you to invest in expensive equipment. The definitive text.

"Fish Grilled & Smoked" by John Manikowski; Storey Press, 2003. Though he's writing from the perspective of a Mainland backwoods stream fisherman, Manikowski here tells you exactly how to grill and smoke anything that swims and shares recipes for both saltwater and freshwater fish and ideas from around the world. His technique for "smoke-grilling" over dried corn cobs and his tips for grilling whole, bone-in fish will be valuable to any fish lover.

• • •

Safe outdoor grilling begins with selecting the right spot

Follow these recommendations for safe grilling:

• Pick a safe place. Grill in a well-ventilated, flat, level area away from overhangs, deck railings and shrubbery.
• Avoid fire flare-ups by using lean meats and trimming visible fat.
• Never add lighter fluid directly to hot coals. Instead, place new briquettes in a metal can and apply lighter fluid. Transfer the briquettes into the pyramid in the grill with a pair of long-handled tongs and light with a match. Or use a metal chimney, a metal cylinder open at both ends with a heat-proof handle. It's placed in the grill, the charcoals are stacked inside and lighted; when the charcoal is ashed over, the chimney is lifted out and the charcoals spread with long-handled tongs.
• Use only approved fuels, not wood scraps which can contain toxic additives.
• After grilling, place the cover on the grill, close the vents and allow the coals to burn out completely. Let ashes cool for at least 48 hours, and dispose of them in a noncombustible container.
• Don't store grilling utensils on the grill. Keep them clean and indoors until you need them next.

• • •

Really get smokin' with more than the hot coals

To create smoky flavors when grilling, acquire a smoke pan or smoker box, a heavy metal pan with a slotted or perforated cover into which wood chunks, chips, dried corn or handfuls of fresh herbs are placed. Or you can improvise a smoke pan by placing chips in a disposable aluminum pan and covering it with heavy-duty aluminum foil; puncture the foil to allow smoke to escape.

The smoke pan is placed on or alongside the hot coals. In a gas grill with dual burner controls, turn off one set of burners and place the smoke pan there. In a gas grill without dual burner controls, place the smoke pan alongside the food on top of the grate. (This cuts back on grilling space, however.)

For a quick steak or fish fillet, just grill as usual with the smoker in place.

But if you want to cool-smoke a whole fish or chicken or other, thicker cut of meat, put the smoker in place, build a hot fire, sear and mark the food, then cool down the fire (remove some coals and/or partly close the draft windows, or lower the gas flame). Remove the food to the cool side of the grill. Cover and allow the food to cook slowly in the smoky environment.

Source: "Fish, Grilled and Smoked" by John Manikowski; Storey Press, 2004

• • •

You decide: Gas or charcoal grill?

Charcoal

Pluses: Superb aroma and flavor of hardwoods or herbs.

Minuses: Timing — coals take 20-25 minutes to reach cooking temperature; wait too long and you have to add fresh coals. Coals must be cooled and disposed of.

Gas

Pluses: Preheating takes minutes. Achieve food flavor by using smoker box or filling smoker drawer with chips. Temperature easy to control. Modern grills feature easy-clean surfaces.

Minuses: Tanks must be filled. Some believe gas-grilled foods lack flavor.

• • •

Among new products that can take some of the burn out of grilling this season:

A grill's grate can be unforgiving to certain foods. Charcoal Companion's Ultimate Grilling Basket System solves the problem of fish that sticks and vegetables that fall through. The set has two black metal, nonstick baskets, one fish-shaped (about 21 inches long), the other square (about 11 inches). The baskets snap shut, so rather than flip the food, you just flip the basket. The tongs-like handle fits both baskets and tucks inside the fish basket for storage. The set sells for about $35 at major department and patio stores.

Miniature meat thermometers won't leave gaping holes in your steak and chicken and are cute enough to leave in food when you serve it. Sold in a four-pack, the two beef thermometers have markings for rare, medium and well-done, and the two for chicken are marked for breasts, wings and thighs. The set costs $15 at Williams-Sonoma stores.

Infuse your grilled foods with the smoky essence of mesquite, rosemary, cinnamon and cloves with a smoker box. Just soak the chips in water, beer or wine for 30 minutes, place the box on the bottom of your gas or charcoal grill, and cook your food as usual. The Charcoal Companion perforated smoker box is $9.99 from Amazon.com.