LIGHT AND LOCAL
A flavorful Puerto Rican favorite, but with way less fat

By Carol Devenot

In my teaching days, at the end of each year I would assign the students to work on food-science projects using their own ethnic foods.

It was such an enriching experience for the students to share something from their culture. I will never forget the Puerto Rican students who made pastelles and gandule rice. Students would always ask for second helpings. You knew it was really good whenever they would say, "Broke the mouth!"

When it came to arroz con gandules (ar-ROZ con gahn-DOO-dez), the student cooks would always say, "Gotta have the achiote." That's the seed of the annatto tree that reddens oil and lends a musky flavor.

They were right, and what a great use of plant also called "lipstick pod." Pigeon peas or gandul or gandule beans are small, tropical, kidney-shaped legumes often used in Puerto Rican cooking. This dish can be a little heavy, with lots of oil and sausage, bacon, fatback or smoked ham and full-fat broth.

I've lightened it by using turkey bacon and vegetarian broth, and added fiber with the use of Hapa Blend rice (half white, half brown).

You shouldn't have any trouble finding these ingredients in supermarkets.

Arroz con Gandules (Pigeon Peas with Rice)

• 1/2 cup onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon achiote oil*
• 1/2 cup green pepper, chopped
• 2 slices turkey bacon, chopped
• 1 (15-ounce) can green pigeon peas (gandule beans), drained (save liquid)
• 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
• 3 cups liquid and 3 tablespoons chicken-style vegetarian broth powder
• 2 cups Hinode Hapa Blend Rice, uncooked
• 1 bunch cilantro (Chinese parsley), chopped

In a large frying pan, brown onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon of achiote oil. Add green peppers and turkey bacon and cook for about 2 minutes. Place pigeon peas liquid and tomato sauce in a large (4 cups or more) measuring cup and add enough water to bring the mixture to 3 cups. Place 2 cups of rice in a rice cooker and stir in the browned onions and garlic, green pepper, turkey bacon, pigeon peas and liquid mixture. Cover and follow manufacturer's instructions for your rice cooker. It should just turn itself off when done. Serve garnished with parsley.

If you don't have a rice cooker, follow above instructions but add enough water to make 4 cups. Place this liquid in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then add remaining ingredients. Return to boil, turn heat down to low, cover and steam until cooked.

*Achiote oil: To prepare 1 cup of achiote oil, put 2 ounces of annato seeds and 1 cup canola oil in a small saucepan. Simmer over low heat for approximately 5 minutes or until oil turns a dark red color. Strain into a glass jar, let cool. Store covered in refrigerator. If you can't find annatto seeds, you can substitute 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of goya powder or chili powder.

Serves 8.

Per serving: 224 calories, 5 grams protein, 3 grams fat, 43 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams dietary fiber: 10 percent protein, 77 percent carbohydrates, 13 percent fat.

Next: June 16, Lazy Lumpia.

Want a local recipe lightened up? Write Light & Local, Taste Section, The Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802; or taste@honoluluadvertiser.com.

Carol Devenot is a Kaimuki-raised kama'aina, teacher and recipe consultant, and author of "Island Light Cuisine" (Blue Sea Publishing, paper, 2003). Learn more at www.islandlightcuisine.com.