BluWater Grill

At the BluWater Grill in Hawai'i Kai, try the inside-out California roll, or the guava-glazed ribs with Caribbean slaw. Advertiser library photos

• Matthew Gray said: "Attractive room at water's edge ... Chef Bill Bruhl (and chef de cuisine Harold Beltran) are known for adeptly combining flavors of the world — Asian, Pacific, Southwestern, Caribbean and Mexican, among others."

• Recommended: Creatively presented inside-out California roll ($12.95); white and dark chocolate-chip bread pudding ($4.95); mango- and guava-glazed ribs with Caribbean slaw (huge portion, ask for extra sauce; $13.95).

• Rating: Three forks.

• FYI: Lunch: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays; dinner: 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; Fridays and Saturdays until midnight; 2:30-11 p.m. Sundays; Sunday brunch: 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 377 Keahole St., Hawai'i Kai (Hawai'i Kai Shopping Center); 395-6224.

The Colony

Randy Agena, chef at The Colony in the Hyatt Regency Waikiki, grills rib-eye steaks. The top dishes include the casserole of prawns; tomato and Maui-onion salad and Oreo cheesecake.

• Matthew Gray said: "The open kitchen is quietly efficient and fast-paced with a fine staff of cooks. The servers are swift and friendly, the drinks keep flowing and the food is quite good ... a really nice time."

• Recommended: Casserole of prawns ($12); tomato and Maui-onion salad ($7); Caesar salad ($8); New York steak (10-ounce $23, 14-ounce $29); Oreo cheesecake ($6).

• Rating: Three forks.

• FYI: Dinner, 6-10 p.m. daily; 2424 Kalakaua Ave., Hyatt Regency Waikiki, diamondhead tower, second floor; 923-1234.

Olive Tree Cafe

The chicken souvlaki is a favorite at the Olive Tree Cafe.

• Matthew Gray said: "Feels like a sidewalk cafe in Athens. ... If you're in the mood for something a bit different, both experientially and flavor-wise, give it a try." Order at walk-up counter, self-serve. Always busy.

• Recommended: Mussel ceviche ($4.80) made with lime juice, ginger, cilantro and herbs; "luscious" salads; nightly specials such as baked, stuffed eggplant (Thursday, $9.60).

• Rating: Three forks.

• FYI: No credit cards, BYOB. Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m. daily; 4614 Kilauea Ave.; 737-0303.

Antonio's New York Pizzeria

Joe Tramontano, left, and Anthony Romano run Antonio's New York Pizzeria on Wai'alae Avenue. The Philly cheese steak sandwich is very good, as are the genuine cannolis, shipped from Ferrara's in New York.

• Matthew Gray said: "The dough is a handed-down recipe with a 'couple little secrets,' said owner Anthony Romano. ... The pizza is thin-crusted, lightly sauced, and should be crisp on the bottom with just a bit of give."

• Recommended: Pizzaola ($13 and $15.20), cheese with olive oil, sweet basil and parmesan; "awesome" Philly cheese steak sandwich ($6.99). Genuine cannolis ($2.99) — crisp pastry with sweet cream filling — are available, too, shipped from Ferrara's in New York.

• Rating: Four forks