Beef gets new zing in spicy pizzaiola

Associated Press

HYDE PARK, N.Y. — Menu suggestion: Surprise Dad this Father's Day with juicy beef tenderloin with pizzaiola sauce, made with this recipe from the Culinary Institute of America.

With its succulent meat and intensely flavored sauce, it's a dish that will make a memorable impact and well repay the cook's efforts. Round out an Italian-inspired meal with an assortment of antipasti, a fresh green salad and a side of pasta.

Enhanced by the slightly sweet yet mildly spicy pepperoncini peppers, the aromatic pizzaiola "pizza-maker" sauce adds complexity to any dish it accompanies. The pepperoncini (Tuscan peppers) are small, yellowish-green chilies that range in heat from mild to medium. Most commonly pickled in vinegar and bottled in glass jars, pepperoncini can be found in supermarkets and Italian delicatessens.

The beef tenderloin that serves as the focal point is rich in texture, flavor and nutrients. Cuts of tenderloin referred to as filet, chateaubriand, tournedos and medallions are all well suited to quick dry-heat cooking methods such as sautéing, the technique used in this recipe.

This method involves cooking food rapidly over high heat in a small amount of fat. When preparing red meat such as beef tenderloin, heat the oil until it shimmers but doesn't smoke. Each piece of meat should come in direct contact with the hot oil to keep it from sticking. Avoid overlapping or crowding the pieces in the pan, as this will cause the meat to steam in its own moisture rather than brown and caramelize.

Mark Ainsworth, associate professor of culinary arts at the Culinary Institute of America, recommends that the buyer carefully examine the cut of meat before purchasing it.

"The meat should appear cleanly cut, fresh and moist," he says. "Fresh meat should always be stored in the refrigerator properly wrapped in freezer paper or plastic wrap.

"To prevent juices from dripping onto other foods, use a separate drawer or pan to store uncooked meats," he adds. "Well-wrapped and refrigerated meats last for three to five days without a noticeable loss of quality."

The following recipe is among the 200 in "Cooking at Home with the Culinary Institute of America."

Beef Tenderloin With Pizzaiola Sauce

For Pizzaiola Sauce:

• 1 cup dry white wine
• 4 teaspoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
• 2 teaspoons fresh basil, chopped
• 2 teaspoons fresh oregano, chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 pepperoncini pepper, chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes

For the Beef:

• 4 lean beef tenderloin steaks (5 to 6 ounces each)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, plus more as needed
• 1 1/2 cups white, oyster and/or porcino mushrooms, sliced

To make the sauce, simmer the wine in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until reduced by half, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the herbs and pepperoncini. Set aside to steep for 30 minutes before preparing the rest of the sauce.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté, stirring often, until light golden, about 5 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes more.

Remove the bay leaf from the wine mixture and discard it. Add the wine mixture to the pan with the tomatoes and continue to simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To prepare the beef, blot the beef dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy sauté pan over high heat. Add the beef and sauté to the desired doneness, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a warmed platter and cover to keep warm while completing the sauce.

Return the sauté pan to medium-high heat and add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the mushrooms and sauté until browned and any juices they release cook away, about 4 minutes. Add the pizzaiola sauce and any juices released by the steaks. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce develops a good flavor and consistency, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve the steaks at once with the sauce.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information (per 5.5-ounce serving): 420 cal., 35 g pro., 8 g carbo., 23 g fat, 490 mg sodium.

Recipe from "Cooking at Home with the Culinary Institute of America," a complete reference for home cooks in the essentials of cooking, with basic information about equipment, ingredients and techniques. Available at bookstores nationwide or at http://store.yahoo.com/ciaprochefstore/texandman.html.