CUISINE ON A SHOESTRING
Munch your way through Kapalama mini-mall

By Matthew Gray
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Kapalama Shopping Center, 1210 Dillingham Blvd., is the focus of this month's column. Besides Zippy's, you can find great eats in this wonderfully ethnic, neighborhood mini-mall.

Pastries from the recently opened Elvin's Bakery. Elvin Lau is the baker and the business, which he runs with his wife, has an appealing decor as well as such unusual offerings as tuna doughnuts. Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

Without a formal baking education, Elvin learned and honed his craft at Panya Bakery. His day starts early, usually around 4 a.m., when breads are prepped for the day. The Sapporo sweet bread ($2.75) is soft, fluffy and sweet; a perfect accompaniment for coffee, or for french toast. The six-grain wheat bread ($2.25) and his raisin bread ($2.50) also are worthy of praise.

But it's the seductive pastries, layered, creamy and lighter than air, that called to me. Try these choices on for size: marble cheesecake, lychee mousse cake, mango mousse cake, strawberry cheesecake, chocolate dream cake, coffee cake, tiramisu, chestnut cake, Japanese cheesecake, and more. Artfully decorated and priced to move ($2.75 a slice), these delicately flavored treats must be tried.

An amazing variety of baked goods lay in wait: Danish pastries (blueberry, chocolate, cinnamon-raisin, custard, $1.19-$1.29), buns (pineapple, melon, Spam-egg, cream cheese, coconut cream, ham-egg-cheese, 99 cents-$1.29), doughnuts (curry, sausage, tuna, custard, 75 cents to $1.29), baguette ($1.99), garlic rolls (75 cents), and literally too many others to mention. Sit down at one of the small tables outside if you have the time, or have them pack your care package for home. Elvin's Bakery is a winner.

Behind an exterior that is deceiving (it looks like a bar/tavern from the outside) is a quaint and cozy family-style restaurant and bar, named Violet's Grill.

I was blown away when owner Kevin Suehisa informed me that Violet's has been in operation for 60 years. Suehisa has owned Violet's for 2 1/2 years, having purchased it from his auntie, along with many of her tried-and-true recipes.

They're proud of their Japanese and Okinawan favorites, along with steaks, chops, seafood and local favorites. Everything I tried was quite good. Shrimp tempura ($8.95, includes miso soup or salad, drink, rice and dessert) was a very hearty plate that was coupled with eggplant, carrot and 'ahi chunks. The steak sandwich ($4.95) was tender and yummy, the small saimin ($3.95) one of the most flavorful I've had in town, and the teri beef and shoyu pork side orders ($3 each) were packed with flavor.

They do a rib steak complete dinner ($12.95), grilled pork chops ($9.25), grilled 'ahi ($9.25, but had garlic 'ahi on special for $8.95), along with Okinawan chanpuru (sauteed) dishes such as nasubi (eggplant) with beef, pork or chicken ($8.75), goya (bitter melon) with beef, pork or chicken ($8.75) and string beans with Spam or bacon ($8.75).

The staff is filled with aloha and is ever-smiling. The tavern was filled with friendly people too, offering super-low prices on beer, wine and more. Several televisions throughout the place let you know that you can let your hair down here.

Aimed primarily at the take-out market, 777 Restaurant has a variety of plate lunches and will soon be renamed Aloha Wok. Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

I really enjoyed the summer rolls ($3.50) and the crabmeat-cheese wontons ($4.50) for appetizers. The Chinese chicken salad ($5.25) was delicious, as was the lemongrass chicken ($5.75), spicy tofu ($5.75) and the crisp and sweet orange chicken ($5.75). Most of the dishes are served with two scoops of rice and one scoop of mac salad.

And there's more

There's also a Korean supermarket, Palama Super Market, which has a great selection of produce, meat, fish and interesting nonfood items. Their Palama Snack Corner (10 a.m.-7 p.m.; 847-4427) makes a mean (and very spicy) barbecue pork ($5.50) and bi bim bap ($5.50, rice, barbecue meat, vegetables and fried egg).

There are so many hard-working and talented people in the Kapalama Shopping Center. Come on by one day and sample the goodies.

Reach Matthew Gray at mgray@honoluluadvertiser.com.