Event celebrates sport's heritage
By Will Hoover
Advertiser Leeward O'ahu Writer
Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser
The North Shore may have surfing prestige, glory and international spotlight.
Surfers Craig Davidson and Miku Uemura yesterday glided on big boards past the Hokule'a voyaging canoe during the first heat of the Bully Board competition at the 28th Annual Buffalo Big Board Surfing Classic at Makaha Surfing Beach.
But Makaha owns the history — "birthplace of big-wave surfing," according to the "Encyclopedia of Surfing" by Matt Warshaw, and home of the world's first international surfing competition in 1954.
Makaha's unofficial world championships ended in 1971, after surfers defected to the mighty waves on O'ahu's North Shore.
But in 1976 a new event appeared at the Makaha Surfing Beach that, while far less heralded than North Shore competitions, embodied many of the traditions most often associated with Hawaiians and surfing.
Yesterday, the 28th annual Buffalo's Big Board Surfing Classic began with the usual light-hearted, low-key fanfare. The Classic was as freewheeling and unleashed as the long boards that graced the 3 to 5 foot waves.
"These are perfect waves for long boards," said Richard "Buffalo" Keaulana. Known to many as the Mayor of Makaha, he started the event with his wife, Momi, shortly after returning to Hawai'i from being the steersman on the Hokule'a's canoe historic maiden voyage to Tahiti in 1976.
"These waves aren't really for short boards."
The music was strictly Hawaiian and poured gently from speakers. As always, there was no prize money, only trophies. Competition was secondary to the experience in any case.
There was little talk of contests, but lots of conversation about folks and families. This was a surfing event that actually looked like those old photos of Duke Kahanamoku gliding majestically atop a long board across an endless wave.
And surfers from New Zealand and Germany, Brazil and Indonesia, came to be a part of it. They came from Nanakuli and Wai'anae as well. About 200 in all, professional and amateur.
"This is a whole different thing," said long board surfer Lars Hansen of Santa Cruz, Calif., who showed up for the first time because he said he wanted to be a part of the unique event and family atmosphere.
Sharing wave energy
Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser
"The most important part of this event is the sense of community," said Mark Jackola, who is working on a book about lessons and values learned from surfing as applied to everyday life. "That is the soul of surfing.
Hokule'a navigator Nainoa Thompson yesterday presented a koa paddle to Buffalo Keaulana, organizer of the surf classic. Keaulana was the primary steersman on the voyaging canoe's maiden voyage to Tahiti in 1976.
"This is the only real, multigenerational, family-oriented surfing event."
According to Jackola, Buffalo's Big Board Classic is that rare example of the true spirit of surfing. It's zen, he says. It's people getting together to have a good time being part of the wave energy, as opposed to trying to dominate it.
"My surf meet is for fun," said Keaulana, who had it made in the shade as a parade of young women and girls came by to share a kiss and hug beneath the tent where he relaxed, watching the action. "It's to think of something fun to do, and to play."
According to Buffalo's son and noted big wave expert, Brian Keaulana, the Classic comes off rain or shine, waves or no waves.
"We've had the event if there were no waves at all," he said. "We paddle out canoes. We come up with something."
This year the meet initiated yet another innovation — a Beach Boy Style Division, an event that harkens back to Waikiki of the 1950s and beach boys who paddled 10-foot long boards with 7-foot paddles.
"You'll see a lot of events here you won't see anywhere else," said Ryan Vangieson, 32, of Nanakuli, just before he entered the water for the Paipo event featuring old style wooden bodyboards about a half-inch thick.
Another popular event that was created especially for the Classic is the 250 Bully Board Division, which features the weighing in of competitors so large — minimum weight is 250 pounds — that a special 5-foot-long, 4-inch-thick bodyboard had to be invented just to hold them.
"This is my favorite beach," said bully board entrant Kainoa Kanaiaupuni, 15, a North Shore ninth-grader, moments after tipping the scales at 280 pounds. "I like the aloha spirit and I like the waves."
Hokule'a surprises surfers
Bruce Asato • The Honolulu Advertiser
One highlight of yesterday afternoon's festivities was the surprise arrival of the double hulled Hokule'a voyaging canoe. Navigator Nainoa Thompson presented Keaulana with a koa wood paddle symbolizing his contribution to the Polynesian Voyaging Society.
Kainalu Froiseth makes a cut across a wave in the fifth heat of the Paipo board competition at Makaha. His efforts earned him a first-place finish and the chance to advance in the competition.
"It's good to see the Hokule'a back in Makaha again," said Boogie Kalama, Buffalo Keaulana's long-time friend and fellow Hokule'a first voyage crew member. Kalama was co-emcee at yesterday's event along with surfer Bunky Bakutis.
The Hokule'a will remain at the Makaha Surfing Beach throughout today's event so visitors can have an opportunity to see it. Buffalo's Big Board Surfing Classic will wind up next weekend.
Reach Will Hoover at 525-8038 or whoover@honoluluadvertiser.com.
