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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, March 10, 2004

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Quality cutting tools, oils, other extras add savor to salads

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Last week, this column discussed the "searching moral inventory" I've employed to overcome my aversion to salads. This week, some practical tips:

• Invest in good cutting tools: a well-balanced chef's knife, a paring knife, Microplane graters and shavers, salt and pepper grinders and a mandoline, box grater or food processor for hard vegetables or fruits. The way that ingredients are cut makes a surprising difference. Instead of grating parmesan, for example, shave it — the flavor difference is stunning.

• Buy the best oils you can afford and keep them in the refrigerator; in our warm climate, oils degrade rapidly. Extra-virgin olive oil is my standard, but I also like walnut oil.

• Vary the vinegars: Balsamic is rich, wine vinegar is tart, flavored vinegars are often sweeter, fresh lemon juice sparks up flavors, puckery pomegranate juice is trendy.

Start by immersing greens in a bowl of cold water, plunging up and down to remove grit. Spin or blot dry; they can be refrigerated in a Salad Sac or paper-towel-lined bag at this point. Tear greens into bite-size pieces, don't slice them.

• Employ the rule of three: Use three types of vegetables and three "yummy things" (grated cheeses, toasted nuts, marinated ingredients, citrus wedges or sliced fruit, grilled meats) — all varied in flavor and texture. A friend who is a great cook says she always adds something crunchy (nuts or a crunchy vegetable or fruit) and some form of fruit (citrus sections, dried cranberries, avocado wedges). It's also nice to vary temperatures — a hot vinaigrette over a cold salad; baked goat cheese or warm grilled meats on room-temperature greens.

• Conquer your fear of the odd. Fennel, which has a very mild anise (licorice) flavor is a crisp vegetable that beats the pants off celery; slice it thin. Arugula (Safeway Beretania always seems to have good, fresh arugula) is a wonderfully nutty-flavored green I can't live without. Flat-leaf parsley (Italian parsley) is much more flavorful and spicy than curly parsley. All the choys, toys and sois — Chinese cabbages — can be chopped and used raw, or lightly steamed, dressed with something flavorful and tossed in. Raw sweet corn grated off the cob offers a juicy, slightly sweet, crunchy contrast.

• Vinaigrettes: Instead of the standard three parts oil to one part acid for vinaigrette, I've learned a rough-and-ready technique that saves fat calories: Place the greens in the salad bowl and drizzle with a little oil (a few teaspoons for a family-size salad); toss. Add minced or diced or grated yummies (herbs, nuts, cheeses); toss again. Splash entire salad with a few teaspoons of vinegar or a few squeezes of lemon juice, add larger goodies (fruit, meats); toss and serve right away.

You can "melt" salt into the vinegar and whisk in any dried herbs, spices or freshly grated pepper before splashing onto salad. But I usually just add the vinegar and grate fresh sea salt and black pepper right onto the greens before the final toss.

The oil gives the greens a lovely sheen and the yummy bits adhere to the greens.