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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Monday, May 10, 2004

Hokule'a sails today, weather permitting

 •  Special report: The Other Hawai'i: A journey with Hokule'a

By Jan TenBruggencate
Advertiser Science Writer

HANALEI BAY, Kaua'i — Hokule'a's crew paddled a four-seat outrigger canoe back and forth from shore over the weekend, carrying cases of food and dozens of sea bags as the crew loaded up for its voyage to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.

Voyagers and supporters clamber onto Hokule'a from an overloaded four-seat canoe. From top: Bruce Blankenfeld, Kaliko Amona, Dennis Chun, Keoni Kuoha and Mawae Morton. Poor weather delayed the voyaging canoe's departure from Kaua'i.

Jan TenBruggencate • The Honolulu Advertiser

There were sacks of onions, cases of eggs, squash, pineapples, papayas, limes, grapefruit, sweet potatoes, avocados, cabbages and tomatoes. Much of the most perishable fresh food will be gone within a few days, and the crew will be left with canned goods and whatever fish they can catch.

Several coolers carried ice, but that is expected to be gone in four or five days, after which all drinks will be warm.

The voyaging canoe, which had been scheduled to sail Saturday, sat in a steady drizzle all day yesterday as a weather front crossed the island.

Capt. Nainoa Thompson said he hoped for a dawn departure today, but said the canoe might have to wait until tomorrow morning.

Hokule'a was readying for a three-week sail through the islands and atolls of the northwestern 1,200 miles of the Hawaiian archipelago, islands that are home to such a remarkable array of wildlife that they were among the first of the nation's national wildlife refuges to be established.

Thompson met with the 12-member crew about 3 p.m. Saturday at a picnic table in Hanalei's Black Pot Park, making bunk and watch assignments, and reviewing the canoe's chain of command. There was another crew meeting in the evening, followed by meetings yesterday at 9 a.m., 2 p.m. and 6 p.m.

The weather, ultimately, would decide when the canoe would sail.

Thompson said that he, sailing master Bruce Blankenfeld and navigator Ka'iulani Murphy will not stand regular watches. The other nine aboard will serve two four-hour watches each day, with eight hours off in between. Each watch has three members, who are in charge of steering the canoe, making sail changes and performing other duties.

The first of two key factors in the decision on when to leave is being within sight of Ni'ihau at sunset, so Murphy can sight back at the island as she establishes the course for Nihoa, the first island to be visited. For a brief period, both the island of Ni'ihau and the navigating stars will be in sight.

"Having the island in sight lets you know where you are when you start out," Thompson said.

The second goal is to sail at a pace that gets the canoe within about 20 miles of Nihoa at the moment the sun rises, when a distant island is more easily spotted than later in the morning.

Crew members on Saturday night were invited to a birthday party at the beach park. Afterward, four of the crew paddled out to the canoe in the moonlight, while the rest slept ashore. A few more were expected to sleep aboard last night.

Advertiser science writer Jan TenBruggencate will serve as a crew member aboard Hokule'a during the voyaging canoe's trip through the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. He will be sending back regular dispatches during the trip.