By Carol Devenot

Traditionally, from-scratch mayonnaise is made with egg yolks, dry mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar or lemon juice. Olive oil is beaten in slowly, a half-teaspoon at a time. There is no comparison, if made correctly. Next-best-tasting is your favorite brand.

However, they both contain a lot of fat. So how do you make mayo less fat? Use low-fat tofu instead of eggs — and don't knock it until you've tried it. Look for the brand that contains the least number of fat grams. I have seen them range from 1.5 to 4 grams per serving. The lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper provide the seasoning to put it over the top. You can be creative and try different vinegars and seasonings, such as balsamic vinegar and maybe some fiery Cajun spices.

I bought a package of Cajun Surprise at a craft fair and used it to make a dip with tofu mayo and plain low-fat yogurt. You'll be a hit at the party when you announce that your dip is low-fat.

Tofu Mayo

• 1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 6 tablespoons vinegar, any type
• 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon mustard
• 2 teaspoons worcestershire sauce
• Salt and pepper to taste

Place tofu on a piece of cheesecloth, wrap it up, and squeeze out the excess liquid; don't worry about breaking it up, because you're going to process it into a paste anyway. Place the tofu and remaining ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Yields 1 1/4 cups.

For the entire 1 1/4 cups (as in a potato salad recipe): 390 calories, 36 grams protein, 21 grams fat, 18 grams carbohydrates, 0 grams dietary fiber: 36 percent protein, 18 percent carbohydrates, 46 percent fat.

Per 1 tablespoon serving: 19.5 calories, 1.8 grams protein, 1.05 grams fat, 0.9 gram carbohydrate, no dietary fiber.

Next column: June 2, arroz con gandules (gandule rice).

Want a local recipe lightened up? Write Light & Local, Taste Section, The Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802; or taste@honoluluadvertiser.com.

Carol Devenot is a Kaimuki-raised kama'aina, a teacher and recipe consultant, and author of "Island Light Cuisine" (Blue Sea Publishing, paper, 2003). Learn more at islandlightcuisine.com.