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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, November 3, 2004

LOCAL & LIGHT
For this moussaka, go meatless

By Carol Devenot

A few months ago, I attended the annual Greek Festival at McCoy Pavilion at Ala Moana Beach Park. Lines were long for the great assortment of Greek food. I ordered moussaka, spanakopita and Greek salad. My friends ordered gyros. The food, music and atmosphere under the balmy Hawaiian skies made for a very interesting eating experience.

If you don't like eggplant in your moussaka, try using zucchini instead.

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My favorite was moussaka because it was so flavorful and moist. Moussaka (pronounced moo-sa-ka) means "casserole" in Greek and is generally made with layered ground beef or lamb and eggplant, topped with a béchamel (white) sauce. But you can make a meatless version using hamburger-style soy products. If you aren't an eggplant fan, you can substitute zucchini. Add sliced, lightly fried potatoes, too, if you are not watching your carbs.

Moussaka makes a great buffet dish because it can be served piping hot or cold. Also, this dish can be prepared a day ahead. To reheat, cover with aluminum foil and bake at 300 degrees.

It helps to multitask as you prepare this meal. While you allow the salted eggplant to drain, start to prepare the "meat" mixture. Plunge the tomato into boiling water for 30 seconds, then dip in cold water. Peel away the skin and chop coarsely. By the time the vegetables are ready, you can start frying the eggplant. While the vegetables are frying, work on the béchamel sauce. If you have two skillets, you could save on the frying time. No f'get: keep one eye on da pot.

Note that I've called for optional allspice or cinnamon in the meat mixture. This may sound odd if you're not used to using these spices in savory dishes, but they add a tantalizing spicy-sweet and distinctly "meaty" flavor — try it.

This dish is well worth a little bit of effort because you and your guests will have a Greek festival at home with mo' betta in-Greek-a-ments! This past weekend, I tested this meal on some friends, serving the moussaka with microwave basmati rice and a Greek salad (I'll share the latter recipe two weeks from now in this space). The group, made up of meat lovers, couldn't tell the difference.

Meatless Moussaka

  • 4 pounds round eggplant, peeled and thinly sliced in rounds
  • 2 round onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 4 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 pounds ground meat alternative like Grilled Boca Burger, chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon allspice or 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
  • 1 large tomato, skinned and chopped
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
  • 1/3-1 cup dry white wine (to taste)
  • Extra-virgin olive oil spray or other nonstick spray
  • 1 teaspoon Hawaiian or kosher salt

For the béchamel sauce:

  • 4 tablespoons no trans-fat margarine
  • 4 tablespoons flour
  • 2 cups low-fat milk, hot
  • Pinch of grated nutmeg
  • 2 egg whites
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, grated (optional)

Sprinkle eggplant with salt, place in a colander in the sink, and allow juices to drain for 30 minutes. Pat dry and drain further on paper towels.

Blanch the tomatoes by plunging into boiling water for 30 seconds, then in cold water for 30 seconds. Skin should pucker and tear and peel away easily. Peel and chop coarsely. Chop onions and mince garlic. Set vegetables aside.

Preheat oven 375 degrees. Sauté onions and garlic until golden yellow in a nonstick skillet sprayed with olive oil spray. Add the chopped meat alternative and fry until brown. Season with salt, pepper and allspice or cinnamon. Add the chopped tomato, tomato paste, and parsley. Stir in the wine and cook for about 15 minutes until liquid is mostly cooked away and mixture is somewhat thick.

If you have a second nonstick skillet, coat it with the olive oil spray and fry the eggplant pieces until they are browned on both sides. Spray a 9-by-13-inch oblong pan with the nonstick spray and lay down alternate layers of eggplant and meatlike mixture starting and ending with eggplant.

Béchamel sauce:

Place the margarine in a saucepan, add flour, and stir over low heat for a few minutes until well blended. Gradually add hot milk, stirring until the mixture boils and taking care not to allow lumps to form. Turn down heat. Season with salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg and the cheese, cooking gently until the sauce thickens. Whisk egg whites directly into the sauce and stir in well. Do not allow the sauce to boil again.

Pour the sauce over the casserole and bake in a preheated 375-degree oven for 45 minutes. Serve hot! Serve with rice pilaf, couscous, brown rice or other grains. This is best made the day before.

Serves 8.

Per serving: 275 calories, 24 grams protein, 5 grams fat, 39 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams dietary fiber, 808 milligrams sodium.

Want a local recipe lightened up? Write Light & Local, Taste Section, The Honolulu Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802; or taste@honoluluadvertiser.com.

Carol Devenot is a Kaimuki-raised kama'aina, teacher, recipe consultant and author of "Island Light Cuisine" (Blue Sea Publishing, paper, 2003). Learn more at www.islandlightcuisine.com.