Bozu does tempura right — hot, delicate, crispy

By Helen Wu
Advertiser Restaurant Critic

Bozu in Kaimuki has been open for about two months and plans to expand its menu soon. Photos by Deborah Booker • The Honolulu Advertiser

A teishoku lunch set meal comes with miso soup and tsukemono (picked vegetables).

Bozu 1137 11th Ave., Kaimuki 732-3113 Open daily Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: 5:30-9 p.m. BYOB Metered parking available 1/2 Mediocre

Eating well-crafted tempura is a highlight I still enjoy. A chef's technique with simple batter and hot oil can elevate shrimp and even humble vegetables such as sweet potato, onions and green beans into a heavenly dish. Tentsuyu — a savory dipping sauce made from shoyu, dashi (bonito and kelp stock) and mirin — only enhances the natural flavors of tempura's fresh ingredients.

Bozu Japanese restaurant lies tucked away in a corner off 11th Avenue, away from the main strip of eateries on Wai'alae Avenue in Kaimuki. Although Bozu features teppanyaki cuisine (cooking on a large griddle in front of diners) at dinner, it is the tempura that impresses me.

Bad tempura is easily recognized by its doughy, greasy batter. You won't find any of this at Bozu. Here, tempura is fried in rice-bran oil known for its light flavor as well as its antioxidant and cholesterol-reducing properties. Bozu's tempura is delicate, lacelike and not overly oily, accompanied by a perfectly flavored housemade tentsuyu.

Chef Masaaki Kato has more than 30 years of experience in preparing tempura and teppanyaki. Formerly a chef at Benihana in Chicago and Los Angeles, he also has worked locally at Kobe Japanese Steak House on Ala Moana. Kato's mastery of the art clearly presents itself in every gratifying bite.

Kato shows off his skill at dinner on the restaurant's single teppan griddle fronting the kitchen. Diners and their children watch as he deftly sautés meats, seafood and vegetables to appropriate doneness. He makes it look easy as he also single-handedly prepares a variety of other orders.

Evening meals showcase four combination teppanyaki plates that come with teppan vegetables and two piquant dipping sauces. They run from $14.99 for teriyaki chicken, scallops and shrimp to $17.99 for steak and shrimp. Four additional dishes ($9.99) also are offered. All dinners include miso soup and tsukemono (pickled veggies).

My dinner companion's steak and shrimp plate seemed a few dollars overpriced at $17.99. The beef was tender and juicy, and the three pieces of shrimp had a nice buttery flavor, but all of it didn't seem to add up to its price tag. Accompanying sautéed zucchini and bean sprouts made for a bland presentation on the plate and didn't contribute much to increasing its value. A side order of sautéed garlic slices ($1.49) added extra kick to the dish.

My tenzaru udon ($9.99) fared better, despite the udon noodles being a touch underdone. Hot, crispy tempura was a great textural contrast to refreshingly cold, chewy wheat-flour noodles.

We also tried side orders of chilled ohitashi ($1.99) and tonkatsu ($4.99). Bozu's ohitashi, made with blanched choi sum, came with a vinegary sauce that was too tart. The tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet dredged in panko (bread crumbs), was succulent and moist.

I was surprised at how packed the little restaurant was. With only one server and chef Kato running the show, be prepared to wait a little for your food if more than half the tables are occupied. Also expect a smoky atmosphere that might make your eyes sting slightly. The teppan griddle gives off smoke, especially when large plumes rise up during the sporadic cleanings between orders.

Instead, I recommend lunch service at Bozu. You can enjoy a greater variety of menu items and specials — minus the smoke. Plates arrive quickly, and food is served hot. All items are reasonably priced, with most costing around $7. Teishoku set meals that come with miso soup and tsukemono are affordable at $6.99.

I tried unagi-don ($7.49), a special, during a lunch visit. The dish appeared with a large piece of eel lacquered in a delectably sweet sauce atop steaming rice. Along with a side of miso soup and tsukemono, my meal was satisfying and not overly filling.

Other lunch selections include hot noodle dishes ($6.99), cold noodle dishes ($7.49) and donburi, or rice bowls, ($6.49). A sample of some of the offerings are nabeyaki udon, noodles in hot broth with an assortment of toppings; misonikomi udon, noodles with hot miso broth, chicken and egg; and sautéed yaki udon, noodles with pork. Owner Naomi Noguchi says they hope to expand the menu for both lunch and dinner in the near future.

Despite its small size, Bozu takes advantage of its interior space. Hanging bamboo screen partitions between tables create more intimate areas. The restaurant's color scheme of a peachy-beige and black is soothingly elegant. The interior is a welcome dining retreat.

Open for about two months now, Bozu manages to please customers with its simple menu and décor. And it could just be the excellent tempura that keeps bringing them back.

Reach Helen Wu at hwu@honoluluadvertiser.com.