Posted on: Wednesday, November 24, 2004
RAISE THE GLASS
Break out the bubbly for holidays
By JoAnn C. Chisholm
With the holidays in mind, what pops into my head (no pun intended), first and foremost is champagne and sparkling wine — anything with bubbles. There is just something about bubbly that makes people smile, get festive and be ready to bring on the celebration.
Gannett News Service I personally favor Billecart-Salmon, Brut Rosé (about $60). This is one of the few remaining champagne houses to be owned by the original family, established in 1818 by Nicolas-Francois Billecart. This rosé champagne is pinot noir-based and just lovely, offering fruit flavors with endless bubbles and lots of flavor. This gem will drink quite well on its own but try it with rich, earthy shiitake or portobello mushroom dishes or perhaps some smoked oysters.
And then there is the Veuve Clicquot, 1995 Brut la Grand Dame. A blend of eight grand cru vineyards, this wine is rich yet refined. La Grande Dame is named after the widow (veuve) Clicquot, often considered the first businesswomen of the modern era. Widowed at the ripe age of 27, she decided to take control of her husband's small champagne house and continue what he started. One of her biggest triumphs was to send a shipment of her champagne in 1814 to Russia in defiance of Napoleon's blockade.
It has rich fruity notes with toast, a delicate nuttiness and a silky, rich palate with honey nuances. On the pricey side at $129, but worth it. A great accompaniment for roasted turkey, vegetables, and gravy, just perfect for this time of year.
You can always go with a California sparkling wine instead of true champagne. In 1862, German immigrants Jacob and Annie Schram established Schramsberg as the first winery with vineyards planted on the hillsides of the Napa Valley. Try Schramsberg Vineyards Brut Rose ($35). Primarily pinot noir grapes with a touch of chardonnay, this sparkler is complex, dry and flavorful. It pairs well with 'ahi steaks, aged cheeses and pasta dishes.
J Vintage Brut from Sonoma's Russian River appellation is a sure bet. Founded in 1986 by Judy Jordan, who was inspired by the quality of the chardonnay and pinot noir fruit produced in the Russian River, J Winery is producing wines just like the fine French blanc de blanc champagnes, a rich, complex and lively wine showing baked apple, light vanilla and roasted almond aromas with light smoky flavors and citrus finish. Excellent with smoked salmon. Expect to spend about $45.
Hardy's from Australia produced a chardonnay brut sparkling wine that was quite nice and is priced at about $10. How can you go wrong with that? A pleasant little wine with quite a bit going on for its class. This will go nicely as an aperitif, or with raw seafood dishes, oysters, clams and shrimp cocktail.
Whatever the occasion, most certainly, champagnes and sparkling wines have their place. Keep your eyes open, because your favorite retailers may offer champagne tastings during the holiday season. Be safe, always bring a designated driver and please hold our soldiers in your thoughts and prayers, that they make it home safely and can share the holidays with their loved ones soon.
JoAnn C. Chisholm owns Wine Lady Hawaii Inc., a fine-wine management and brokerage firm. Reach her at 293-4127 or see www.wineladyhawaii.com.
My uncle and godfather, whom I adore, was the first to introduce me to champagne in the early 1980s. He would find the wines that most moved him and then share them with the rest of the family. On such special occasions, be it Thanksgiving, Christmas, a wedding or simply a gathering of loved ones, it most certainly began with a nice bottle of champagne. My first experience was with Mumm Cordon Rouge. Champagne Mumm, founded in 1827 in Reims, France, is recognized as a leading marque, whose reputation has been built on both its nonvintage bruts and vintage wines. Expect to spend about $35.
hampagne always makes a great holiday drink. Billecart-Salmon, Brut Rosé, at about $60, is an excellent choice.
