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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, October 3, 2004

Four great cities made for shop-hopping

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Some see the sights. Some plan their trips around eating. Others seek outdoor adventure.

And then there are shoppers. Their idea of a great day on vacation is the one on which they find a little out-of-the-way boutique or come across treasures as gifts for their friends, relishing the discovery of a unique shop specializing in scrapbooking or sewing or chocolates flavored with green tea.

We asked our shopping-savvy readers to share tips for four destinations we know are popular with local travelers: San Francisco; Seattle; Vancouver, British Columbia; and New York. A note of caution: Although this information was collected recently, before you go out of your way, it's best to call and make sure the stores are still in business. In many large cities, the smaller the shop, the shorter the survival time.

San Francisco

Tips for travelers who love to shop

• Take a notebook with the sizes of anyone for whom you're likely to buy a garment, and measurements of furniture or other items for which you might buy accessories.

• If you find something you like, but just aren't sure about it, get the item number or description, the name and address of the shop and their e-mail address or Web site. You can always order it when you get home.

• Pack a piece of soft luggage in your suitcase. When returning, fill the soft piece with clothes and regular luggage with more delicate purchases.

• Take clothes that are on their last leg then discard them as you travel.

• If your purchases exceed your luggage capacity, take them to a UPS, FedEx or U.S. Postal Service. If you make a lot of purchases in one place, ask what it would cost to ship them. You may save money if the shipping costs are less than the sales tax of the state in where you buy it.

While the city by the bay is best known for its cable cars, cosmopolitan cuisine, hillside Victorian houses and proximity to the wine country, San Francisco also offers a plethora of unusual and exciting shops.

Peggy Decano, an avid scrapbooker, always makes a point of going to the Scrapbook Nook in San Bruno, near the San Francisco airport. "This is the best scrapbooking supply store I have been to. It is so well organized, the selection is amazing, and the staff is friendly and very helpful," she said.

Hayes Valley is a little-known shopping district near Alamo Square, home of the famous "Painted Ladies," a row of classic and colorful Victorian homes, well worth a visit for a photo op. There are craft and art galleries, an unusual music store, vintage boutiques and a number of interior design specialists.

In addition, Hayes Street is punctuated by fabulous little eateries where weary shoppers can take a break. Hayes & Vine is an honest-to-goodness wine bar with numerous flights of wine by the glass, and pupu and cheese platters designed to complement. Citizen Cake is among the city's most popular dessert stops, with homemade ice cream (try the creamed corn or black pepper flavors) and pastries in the French style.

Island seamstresses have grown to rely on Britex Fabrics, 146 Geary St. (temporarily at 117 Post while the Geary store is remodeled), for their special fabric and notions needs. They stock the finest Swiss cottons, imported wools, Irish linens, the best of everything. The remnants floor is a great place to start and the notions and buttons section on the fourth floor is a must.

On a much smaller scale is Bell'occhio at 8 Brady, just south of Market Street, A gem that houses a select collection of vintage ribbons and trims.

Nancy Pace of Kahala is an enviable shopper. She decries anything ordinary and seems to have a nose for the extraordinary. Here are her San Francisco picks:

Kati Koos/Smile, 500 Sutter St. (two boutiques in one space): "Fabulous, fun and funky one-of-a-kind pieces to wear for any occasion, from linens to velvets. Kati travels across the country to seek individual artists who make incredible pieces for this boutique, which caters to the woman with adventure and excitement in her life. Accessories, scarves, jewelry, socks, gloves, hats and raincoats abound in unusual fabrics and patterns. The front of the store is a gift gallery with the motto 'You are never too old for toys.' "

Cicada, 547 Sutter St.: "Designer wearable art and fiber art along with shibori hand-pleated clothing. It also has a wonderful collection of hand-dyed wraps and scarves. This is a wonderful store for an unusual wedding gown or mother of the bride gown."

Alessi, 424 Sutter St.: "This Italian house wares shop is full of whimsical items for home or gifts, some of which have been featured in museums."

Joanie Char, 527 Sutter St.: "The clothes are all made of natural fibers, the jewelry by local artists. "

Carol Dolighan, 1846 Union St.: "This Pacific Heights store carries unique clothing in free-flowing rayon with gorgeous color waves, along with artisanal fashion jewelry."

Dreamweaver, 171 Maiden Lane: "Lovely handmade sweaters and wraps."

The Rafael's, 285 Geary St.: "'For the fine art of fashion' is the store's motto. Incredible wearable art designed by more than 40 artists."

SFMOMA, in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, 151 3rd St.: "This gift store is not to be missed. They have an extensive collection of unusual accessories and gifts for everyone imaginable on your list."

Need a gift for someone who likes to look at the world from a different point of view? Tomma Irvine of Hawai'i Kai loves the Something/Anything shops specializing in kaleidoscopes. She found one in Ghirardelli Square, where you can spend $20 — or thousands — for all kinds of kaleidoscopes. They also sell artisan jewelry and ceramic clocks.

Kaui Philpotts, our former food columnist who lives in Nu'uanu, spends a great deal of time in San Francisco, and among her favorite bay city pastimes is shopping in out-of-the-way places. Here are a few of her faves:

Nest, at 2300 Fillmore, this little gem has some of the qualities of a Parisian flea market but it's not all French stuff — more like "a point of view boutique" selling handmade slippers, linens, vintage jewelry, and unusual Chinese pajamas — fun things you won't find anywhere else.

Sue Fisher King, at 3067 Sacramento St., carries home furnishings from Italy, England and France, including perfumes, objets d'art, Venetian glass light fixtures. "That whole block is fabulous, with all kinds of stylish stuff in shops that are owned by people who live in San Francisco," Philpotts said.

George, located off Fillmore on California, is a place for the most pampered of pets. Owners Bobby Wise and Lyndon Lambert held "focus groups" with their fox terrier in 1987 before selecting beds, quilts and handmade treats for their upscale shop.

Ichiban-Kan, at 22 Peace Plaza in Japantown, is a sophisticated dollar store with everything from spare kitchen utensils to roasted chestnuts to kooky businessman-rabbit figurines.

The Gardener, 1 Ferry Plaza, is a Zen-inspired housewares shop with a focus on the garden. The Ferry Building is a must-see, with an abundance of local artisan cheeses, wines, seafood, chocolates and organic everything. It's like a farmer's market every day and on Saturday mornings the sidewalks are filled with produce that farmers truck in just for the day.

Downtown Seattle has excellent food markets, boutiques, jewelry stores, and glass artists who both demonstrate and sell their work.

Advertiser library photo • June 16, 2004

SEATTLE

There's more to the Emerald City than the Space Needle, the Pike Place Market and the fish throwers. Our readers shared some secret haunts for everything from rubber chickens to hiking boots.

In the Queen Anne district, Cheryl Tipton of Makawao discovered two adorable shops next door to each other at 606 and 608 West Crockett. Rhinestone Rosie's, she reports, has all kinds of vintage jewelry and other accessories. Beverly Hunnicutt's custom clothing design and tailoring features one-of-a-kind garments, kimono and handbags made from silk brocade, cottons and kimono fabrics.

For your feline-fanatic friends, The Paper Cat, in Pioneer Square, has one store dedicated to rubber stamps and another to cards and stationary on cat-related themes.

A reader named only "Charles" e-mailed a list of his Seattle faves:

Elliott Bay Books, 101 South Main St.: Seattle's version of Powell's, with knowledgeable help, frequent readings, unusual selections.

REI, 222 Yale Ave. N.: Recreational Equipment Inc.'s "flagship for outerwear; a great climbing wall, a garden with rocks where you can try out hiking boots, a booth with rain that sprinkles out of the ceiling where you can try on raincoats."

• Archie McPhee's, 2428 NW Market St.: "Every gag gift you don't need: rubber chickens, retro lunch boxes, giant chairs in the shape of a hand, bobbleheads."

• Dilettante Chocolates, 416 Broadway E.: "Café with great food, desserts and coffee drinks and packaged chocolates in nice boxes; their Ephemere chocolate sauce makes great omiyage." Recipes based on those of a confectioner to the Russian court.

• The Spanish Table, 1427 Western Ave.: Everything you need to make a Spanish feast — paella pans, sangria pitchers, olive trays and other fun stuff.

Here are Nancy Pace's picks for Seattle:

Opus 204, 2004 First Ave.: "Clothing that is functional and artsy, wearable by anyone. Often simple in design, which makes for wonderful backdrops for fabulous jewelry finds. The clothes are of beautiful cottons, rayons, silks and linens. If you find a piece that you love they will often make it for you if they don't have it in your size."

Ragazzi's Flying Shuttle, Pioneer Square, 607 First Ave.: "One-of-a-kind contemporary art jewelry, hand-woven apparel and accessories — a great place to find unusual scarves and unique sweaters or jackets in earthy colors."

Dita Boutique, 1525 First Ave.: "This small boutique is packed with clothes from Staley Gretzinger to Flax."

Facere, Jewelry Art, City Center, 1420 Fifth Ave.: "This is magnificent place to shop for that unusual necklace or pair of earrings."

• Vetri, 1404 First Ave.: "An inviting shop featuring international glass pieces for gifts or to be made into wearables."

Totally Michael's, 521 Union St.: "Caters to the businesswoman who wants to have flair in her outfit — a little more conservative than the others I have mentioned."

Ped, 1115 First Ave.: "A hip shoe store where you will not find stiletto heels, but fun and funky fashions for your feet which are designed to be comfortable but not Birkenstock."

Tomma Irvine of Hawai'i Kai suggests driving over to West Seattle where, tucked between buildings, you can find an artist blowing glass. "Make a point of stopping at Spuds for fish and chips, and order extra and take it across to the beach and feed the seagulls," she recommends. She also loves to hang around art galleries such as Dunville, which has everything from Southwestern paintings to hand painted silk scarves, gifts and glassware.

VANCOUVER

The Canadian city's image is defined by its Victorian architecture, elegant afternoon tea and elaborate English gardens. However Advertiser readers have also made it a shopping mecca. The current exchange rate makes it a bargain location, as do the out of the ordinary shops.

Dawn Isa was planning a trek in Nepal when she visited Vancouver. There she discovered Mountain Equipment Co-op, which she described in an e-mail: "This huge store is an outdoor/sporting person's heaven! For a $5 fee to join the co-op you are able to access great prices in the store, receive their catalogue by mail and consult with the helpful and knowledgeable staff. Since the entire block on West Broadway was a collection of sporting equipment stores, the staff even guided us to other stores on the block when they were not able to meet our needs." The Internet lists eight other locations.

Sandra and Sandy Dawson of Waikiki said their favorite book store is Banyen Books, 3608 West 4th Ave., specializing in publications, music and calendars "with a spiritual flavor. It has great sections on women's books, health, personal psychology, science, mathematics and fiction."

Restoration Hardware, 2555 Granville St., is the Dawsons' favorite haunt for unusual housewares, kitchen stuff, furniture and, of course, hardware.

When they're in the mood for just moseying along, they go to Granville Island where there is a collection of interesting stores and markets including a farmer's market, art galleries and sailmakers. "The island is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon roaming whether it be sunny or cloudy, raining or not," the Dawsons report.

Our e-mail friend, "Charles," loves the Yaohan Centre, where he finds Japanese groceries and an "incredible food court filled with stalls selling all kinds of Asian foods, from the usual to the unusual — and for cheap Canadian prices."

Melanie Hutchinson of 'Aiea enjoys hanging out on Commercial Drive, a few blocks north and south of East First Avenue. She said there is a "Little Italy" there and a lot of Asian markets in the district, as well as shops with unique things. Her favorite is the Santa Barbara Market, where she orders a sandwich to go and enjoys it while browsing the neighborhood for clothing, furniture, home décor and art.

Hutchinson added Maynards, 415 W. 2nd Ave., to her list of favorites. They hold auctions of estate furniture and jewelry; she recalled that a friend found her engagement ring there.

Philpotts loves Urban Fare, 177 Davie St., in Yaletown. It's a gourmet gift and takeout place with all things fresh, from flowers to exotic foods. She also reports that "Yaletown and Granville Island are worth a whole day of shopping. There are some super-hip clothing stores in Yaletown."

"Robson Street is kind of like their big shopping area with all the Gaps and Banana Republics but there's also Stephane de Raucourt, a fabulous shoe store named after a Vancouver shoe designer. In addition to his namesake shoes and boots, he stocks other designers' fashionable shoes we don't have in Hawai'i," said Philpotts.

It's been said of New York that if you can't find what you're looking for there, it probably doesn't exist. Shopping in the Big Apple requires stamina, and for many items, deep pockets.

Advertiser library photo • August 23, 2004

NEW YORK

Most Islanders go to New York for theatre, food and the arts. Leslie Allen of Ka'a'awa goes for the chocolate. Specifically, the chocolate that she finds at Vosges Haute Chocolat at 132 Spring St. in Soho. "It's the most awesome chocolate I've ever tasted. The green tea chocolate is beyond belief," she exclaimed.

The Dawsons wrote about favorite haunts on the lower East Side, especially "Katz Deli, site of the infamous 'When Harry Met Sally' scene...the atmosphere is infectious with good humor." After filling their stomachs they like to meander down Orchid Street, "a collection of wonderful, low-cost shops with almost any kind you could wish for. Don't be frightened off by the shopkeepers who yell 'What you want, lady?' It's their way of greeting you into their store. And be sure to bargain. The deals are there to be negotiated."

Orchid Street is mainly for clothing, accessories and lingerie. Many of the vendors are wholesalers but will sell to individuals at reduced prices. The street, the Dawsons said, is "junky, messy and noisy." In fact, it inspired the Neil Diamond song "Beautiful Noise."

In Greenwich Village, at 96 Greenwich Ave., is a clever shop called Flight 001 inspired by Pan Am's Flight 001 that took jet-setters around the world in the mid-20th century. In an effort to bring the glam factor back into travel, they carry luggage (a leopard-print safari trolley and Mandarina Duck Cabin Suitor), Pucci-esque sleep masks, Babysparewear, tiny travel candles and magnetic chess games. There is also a signature line of travel items created by the owners, former industrial designers, that combines practicality and miniaturization.

You can also check it out at www.flight001.com. There is another Flight 001 shop in San Francisco's Hayes Valley.

SoHo is a favorite shopping destination for those seeking the unusual. Textile designer Liora Manne, a designer known for her wool felt rugs, is now featuring richly patterned handbags and accessories in addition to sofas, tables and ottomans in her stunning prints. At 91 Grand St.

• Kate's Paperie, 561 Broadway in SoHo, as well as stores on the upper East Side, Midtown West and Greenwich Village, is a paradise for paper lovers and those searching for a great gift, card or box of stationery. They stock 3,000-plus decorative papers and custom invitations.

Global Table, 107 Sullivan St., owned by a former fashion editor, focuses on the home with a fundamentally Zen aesthetic accented with brightly colored bud vases, bowls and other items to make a table top shine.

Kirna Zabete, 96 Greene St., is a boutique that's always searching for the next big designer. Balenciaga and Imitation of Christ clothing and Karen Walker boots are among the lines carried here first.

• Aedes de Venustas at 9 Christopher St. has hard-to-find skincare lines and fragrances, including Creed perfumes and Christian Tortu room sprays.

• Just a few doors up at 13 Christopher St. is Albertine, a boutique featuring owner Kyung Lee's own designs as well as designers seldom found elsewhere in the United States such as Salvor, Menuez, Kathy Kemp and Valentine.

• Posteritati, 239 Centre St., has an entire vault of old movie posters, but they're originals, not reprints, so expect posters to be priced accordingly.

New York is a seamstress's paradise. In the garment district, around West 37th, 38th and 39th streets, are warehouses stocked floor to ceiling with fabrics, buttons, trims and every notion imaginable. Among the most famous are M&J Trimmings, Gordon Button Co. and Tender Buttons. Sometimes designers such as Donna Karan sell their remnants to wholesalers, so "regular" customers can purchase them. They're often kept in back rooms. Try ask.

Here are Philpotts' finds in New York:

• Resurrection, 217 Mott St. in SoHo. Want to see where Sofia Coppola and Chloe Sevigny find their coolest vintage pieces? Resurrection stocks 1960s and '80s Pucci, Halston and Courreges. For the vintage-lover with deep pockets.

Takashimaya, 693 Fifth Avenue, "Downstairs there's a fantastic florist i a branch of a French florist called Christian Tortu. The flowers are sophisticated and unstructured — very Parisian. The aesthetic is minimal and everything is luxurious and pared down. Nearby is the Tea Box that serves tea and lunch and it's a wonderful place."

• Fellissimo, 10 West 56th St., a lifestyle store situated in a brownstone house that goes up several floors. It's Asian-themed and offers everything to help you relax your body and mind, from wood chimes to satin pillows.

ABC Carpet and Home, 888 Broadway at 19th St., is known for its vintage modern furnishings, carpets, Frette linens and Middle Eastern furnishings.

Neue Galerie, near the Metropolitan and Frick Museums. "Anyone with a passion for design should go here," said Philpotts, "It's in the old Cornelius Vanderbilt mansion. The gift shop is really interesting and specializes in early 20th century German and Austrian designers and artists. It has an incredible caf? with Austrian pastries."