Posted on: Wednesday, October 13, 2004

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Five student chefs face the judges

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

What if, besides having to prepare a company-worthy entrée or dessert, you had to do the cooking on deadline, make the plate as pretty as the food was tasty, then present it to a panel of food experts to critique — right to your face and in front of your friends and family?

You might never want to cook again.

It's to be hoped that the experience won't have that effect on the five student chefs who participated in Pamela Young's "Mixed Plate" competition last week at Kapi'olani Community College. Certainly they found it nerve-wracking to know their dishes were being evaluated by a trio that included chef-restaurateurs D.K. Kodama (Sansei, Vino), Chai Chaowasaree (Singha Thai, Chai's Island Bistro), and me. One contestant, Jodi M. Corey, was shaking visibly as she set her entry before us.

The cooks had been given $30 each for ingredients and were asked to prepare a mixed plate based on their ethnic heritage, a dish that employed the techniques they are learning at KCC and one suitable for a restaurant menu.

Christopher Dorsaneo, 22, presented us with a homey and full-flavored dish of braised lamb shanks with ricotta-shiitake gnocchi.

Lance Nitahara, 28, made something elegant: tempura prawns stuffed with bits of foie gras, made-from-scratch soba noodles with truffles, and an exceptional tsuyu dipping sauce.

Michael Ledesma, 31, roasted succulent Kona lobster and served it in puddles of rich Sauce American with white truffle quinoa (a nutritious light whole grain) — a gorgeous presentation.

Hai Van Chung, 27, wrapped extra-large shrimp in shiso leaves, pancetta and wide rice noodles, seared them and drizzled spicy chili oil about the plate. I loved the flavor and texture contrasts and thought this one could go right on D.K.'s or Chai's menu.

And Corey, 38, prepared a work of art: an airy spongecake soaked in a syrup flavored with sake, filled and rolled sushi-style with creamy green-tea mascarpone mousse and azuki beans, served with chopsticks made of chocolate and edible gold.

Afterward, we were asked for verbal feedback; Young urged us to be frank in our assessments. And we were, offering advice about such practical matters as pricing (costly ingredients should be used where they make the most impact) and serving (cook and present foods so that they're easy to spear with a fork or pick up with chopsticks).

Kelvin Ro of KCC pointed out that such competitions offer a rare opportunity for students to get frank feedback outside the classroom, in a safe environment where nobody's restaurant reputation is on the line.