Posted on: Sunday, October 31, 2004
Moments of Life | New wave rider
By Dayton Morinaga
Advertiser Staff Writer
Photos by Jeff Widener
Advertiser Staff Photographer
Treasure Rousselo now knows what it means to be stoked.
"It's an awesome feeling," Rousselo said "I'm definitely going to try it again."
Rousselo, 25, grew up in Brighton, Mich., and is in her first semester of graduate studies at Hawai'i Pacific University. Last week, she and her roommate, Kristen Fern, took a surfing lesson from the Hans Hedemann Surf School.
"Getting up and balancing wasn't so bad," Rousselo said. "But I didn't realize how hard it was to paddle and read the waves."
For $75, Rousselo received a two-hour lesson from instructor Justin Lambert. All beginners are given a "briefing" on the beach before venturing into the waves. The students also use "soft top" surfboards for safety reasons.
"She was actually good for a first-timer," Lambert said, giving her a fictional grade of "A-minus or B-plus."
Waves were small at Malaekahana Beach, but that was just fine with Rousselo. She grew up water-skiing on lakes, and her father is a certified water-ski instructor.
"I've been water-skiing since I was 4, so that might have helped me with the balancing," she said.
Sure enough, Rousselo was riding waves to shore less than a half-hour into the lesson. She also took her share of wipeouts, but there were no injuries.
"There was nothing scary at all about it," she said. "Even falling down was fun."
It was so much fun, Rousselo said, that she has signed up for a second lesson.
"I'll keep going until I'm ready to go by myself," she said. "That's how much I love it."
• • • • • • GOT A MOMENT TO SHARE? Our monthly Moments of Life feature shines a light on personal transitions and connections. We welcome your reactions or suggestions for future topics. Send comments to Island Life editor Elizabeth Kieszkowski, ekieszkowski@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-8034.
On her first day of surfing, she was up and riding.
Treasure Rousselo prepares for her first day of lessons from the Hans Hedemann Surf School at Turtle Bay Resort.
From left, instructor Justin Lambert and students Treasure Rousselo and Kristen Fern look for a good surfing spot at Malaekahana Beach Park as they prepare for a lesson.
Rousselo gets a helping hand from Lambert on how to keep her balance.
Rousselo disappears in a wave as she learns to surf. "I didn't realize how hard it was to paddle and read the waves," she said.
Treasure takes a fall — joyously — during her first day of surfing lessons on the North Shore. She climbed back on that board and went out again.
Rousselo finally manages to stand upright on the surfboard. "It's an awesome feeling," Rousselo said.
Rousselo and Lambert exchange high fives following the lesson as Fern watches.
