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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Tuesday, September 7, 2004

Fall into fashion

By Paula Rath
Advertiser staff writer

This fall, in-your-face sex appeal is out. It's been replaced by subtle sensuality and a polished, ladylike aesthetic. Forget rock star raunchiness; designers are inspired by the characters of the sexy secretary and shapely librarian.

Individuality is celebrated as women personalize the way they accessorize and embellish their clothes. A bow at the neck, a brooch at the waist, a touch of fur at the cuff, crystal beads floating on a cardigan, metallic threads meandering through a tweed jacket — it all adds up to an individualized look.

The eye-popping colors of spring and summer have been replaced by rich jewel tones for fall. Few earthy browns and murky purples this year.

Tweed is the fabric for fall 2004. Although it may not be the most appropriate for our climate, tweed can still be incorporated because it's available in accessories as well as suits. For those who don't work in air-conditioned offices, a tweed pump, tweed camellia brooch or tweed handbag can make the trend work in our weather. Same with fur, another hot and haute trend: While a fur coat might look ridiculous on Bishop Street, we can follow Gucci's lead and add a hint of mink or faux fur to the hem of a skirt or the cuff of a cardigan.

The Advertiser asked our fashion forum members to select and interpret a favorite fall trend. Here's what they chose.



THE FITTED BLAZER

Fitted Blazer: Advertiser fashion forum member Chanel Shiraishi models a chocolate-hued fitted blazer she found at Macy's.

Photos by Eugene Tanner • The Honolulu Advertiser

Name: Chanel Shiraishi

Where you found it: Macy's at Ala Moana Center, in the junior's ThIsIt section

Cost: $59

Where else you shopped: Abercrombie & Fitch, Arden B., Gap, Banana Republic, Barneys New York, girlshop.com

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "I found my dream jacket at www.girlshop.com: It's a silk tweed blazer with blue, white and purple ribbon detail, at $497. Perhaps a bit too pricey for my pocketbook."

How you'll wear it: "The chocolate jacket with a silver rose brooch over a maroon silk/lace camisole. Pair it with cropped dark denim jeans and silver metallic ballet flats. Possibly a newsboy hat? Or same top and jacket with an A-line flared vintage skirt and chocolate suede ballet flats. Or subtract the brooch and add a cute little neck scarf."

How NOT to wear it: "Don't pair it with any style of dress; it becomes too much of a statement."



BROOCHES

Name: Willow Chang

Where you found it: "It was a gift from an old boyfriend, but I know he found it at Riches Kahala. It's by New York designers Jose and Maria Barrera."

Cost: Don't know.

Where else you shopped: "I saw some fabulous brooches at the Collectibles Show in July at the Blaisdell, as well as at vintage stores and on e-Bay."

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "Yes, I coveted this signature piece for some time. I was surprised to receive it as a birthday gift. It's elegant; it has motion to the design; it has subtle color gradations and brims with the exotic!"

How you'll wear it:

• At the shoulder or on the hip (I love asymmetry).

• On jackets, evening wear, sweaters, denim, suits or blazers, dresses, skirts or scarves, cinching a headband (turban style) or clipped to a cloth bag.

• With pearls or chains à la bolo tie (at the nape of the neck, gathering the strands together).

How NOT to wear it:

• Don't use it on flimsy fabric that won't support the weight. (Here's a secret: Bra straps can double as support for pins.)

• Don't have jewelry "compete" — a very large brooch doesn't need chandelier earrings.



THE SECRETARY BLOUSE

Name: Melissa May

Where you found it: at a vintage store in New York.

Cost: $12

Where else you shopped: Marc Jacobs, Banana Republic, thrift stores

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "This is my dream blouse because I love the color. The fit isn't perfect, but oh, well."

How you'll wear it: "Combine it with other fall trends and vintage-inspired accessories for a 'librarian chic' look ... (i.e., a pencil skirt, brooches, a fitted jacket or beaded cardigan, faux-croc pumps, seamed or fishnet stockings, and librarian spectacles or fishbowl-sized sunglasses). You can also pair it with nicely tailored skirts or wide-leg slacks, and by all means play with different ways of tying the scarf."

How NOT to wear it: "Don't attempt to dress it down by wearing it with jeans or shorts; consider it a piece that allows you to display your relentless feminine side (wink)."



FEMININE DRESSING

Name: Tiffany Hsu

Where you found it: Le Lotus Bleu

Cost: top: $22, skirt: $32

Where else you shopped: Macy's, Wet Seal

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "It's not my dream item, because I usually prefer brighter summer colors rather than fall colors. But, hey, it's fall! I love the top because it's fun, feminine and comfortable."

How you'll wear it: "I'll always wear it with heels. The top can also be worn with jeans or a denim skirt."

How NOT to wear it: "Don't wear big jewelry with this look. No jacket, no flats and definitely no slippers."



BALLET FLATS

Name: Heather Meulemans

Where you found it: Savers

Cost: $10

Where else you shopped: "I look everywhere for good ballet flats. I have about three pairs in different variations."

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "Yes, it was my dream item! I looked everywhere for ballet flats with bows and I found them in Savers, of all places. They hadn't been worn."

How you'll wear it: "I love them with fuller skirts to balance the look. They're great with my cuffed jeans and capris. I walk a lot, and they're comfortable mile after mile."

How NOT to wear it: "They might disappear under long, baggy slacks, since they're a delicate shoe. Honestly, they look good with most outfits, though."



BOY MEETS GIRL

Name: Sherry Chock Wong

Where you found it:

• Vintage fedora from Darlene Mandel at the Collectibles Show ($20)

• Orange silk camisole from Banana Republic ($8.97)

• Gray flannel-look trousers by Morgan de Toi (purchased in Hong Kong) ($55)

• Tweed shoes by Isabella Fiore from Off 5th ($89)

Where else you shopped: Goodwill

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "I love the fedora; the color is great and the price was right. I would love to own a real Panama fedora, but I think they run anywhere from $100 and up for the superfine hats. I'm currently performing in Manoa Valley Theatre's production of 'My Way,' a musical tribute to Frank Sinatra, and I'm so inspired by his music and style."

How you'll wear it: "Mix it up! I like to pair the traditionally masculine with girly pieces to emphasize my femininity. Here, I wore a man's fedora with a silk cami and pearls. I also have on pants in a gray flannel-look fabric, but cut to flatter a woman's shape. The pumps are curvy ... with a heel and floral appliqué, but in tweedy menswear material.

"There are several ways to mix it up: One is to wear a feminine item, such as a handbag or a skirt or a pair of pumps, in a menswear-inspired fabric like herringbone or tweed. Another is to pair a masculine item, such as a fedora or a man's crisp, white shirt, with something feminine, like beautiful jewelry. You can also wear a man's suit, vest or trousers cut to flatter feminine curves."

How NOT to wear it: "There are no hard and fast rules; wear what you feel good in and the resulting air of confidence you carry will complete the look."



THE SECRETARY SKIRT

Name: Amy DeFilippi

Where you found it: Pzazz! Consignment Store

Cost: $25

Where else you shopped: New York boutiques

Was it your dream item? If not, did you have a dream item you couldn't afford? "If it was Prada and had a matching jacket, it would have been my dream item."

How you'll wear it: "Here I'm wearing it with a pink lace shirt from Under a Hula Moon ... with a black cami I bought in Australia and chandelier earrings made by Honolulu designer Ani Young of Ani Art, and my grandmother's truly vintage pumps with a bow.

"But really, this skirt can be worn anytime, anywhere ... with a lace shirt out at night, or with a T-shirt and slippers to the beach, or with a button-down shirt to a job interview. It's a great, versatile staple for fall. This skirt is modern but reminiscent of the '50s, which is why it meshes so well with vintage items."

When NOT to wear it: "Any time you're going to be doing any athletic endeavors, don't wear this skirt. I fell off my bike on University Avenue and couldn't get back up!"

Reach Paula Rath at prath@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-5464.