Winemaking is not about manipulation; it's about respect for the grapes and the craft of showing off what a vineyard can do. It's about blending different varietals that work well together and don't overpower each other. It means adding a blending grape that fills in the gap on flavor that a stand-alone grape may not be able to do. Or, simply working with a single varietal such as chardonnay or sauvignon blanc or cabernet sauvignon and experimenting with oak or no oak (from the barrels in which the wine is aged), stainless steel or neutral barrels; blending or not blending with grapes from other vineyard sites, and so on. The possibilities are endless. One winemaker told me: "The grapes do all the work. I am simply here to steward, respect and allow them to become the best they can be."

Here are some examples of wines that speak of their origins:

• Consider the rich tropical fruit aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus and even papaya that are present in Baileyana, Chardonnay from San Luis Obispo ($22).
• The subtle fruit and mineral flavors in French Domain Barat Chablis, Milly, Chablis, France, ($15).
• The waxy candle "nose," blueberry and black cherry and currant flavors in Truchard Carneros Merlot ($28).
• The raspberry and cherry flavors, with delicate spice from Hogue Merlot in Washington state ($16).
• The forward aromas with pronounced black fruit tones and accents of blueberries and white pepper found in Curtis Winery Ambassador Vineyard Syrah from Santa Barbara ($21).
• The vibrant crisp raspberry, plum and vaguely leafy herbal flavors of Rosemont Mudgee Hill of Gold Shiraz from Australia ($17).

In a nutshell, the same varietals grown in different areas impart unique flavor profiles. To me, that is a "sense of place."

Rule of thumb: Choose wines with similar body and flavor of the food you are eating, and you will have a match!