Bring the white wine, water, vinegar, salt, red pepper flakes and minced shallots to a simmer in a saucepan over high heat. When the liquid boils, add the shrimp. As soon as the liquid returns to the boil, cover it tightly and turn off the heat. When the pan is cool enough, put it in the refrigerator to chill.

When ready to serve the salad, peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the cooking liquid. Cut the cantaloupe into quarters, peel it and cut the flesh crosswise into half-inch-thick slices. Trim the arugula and tear it into bite-size pieces.

Strain the shrimp cooking liquid. Place 1 tablespoon of it in a small, lidded jar. Add the lemon juice and olive oil and shake well to make a smooth, thick dressing. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if necessary.

Put the melon slices in a work bowl and add enough dressing to coat lightly (about 2 tablespoons). Toss gently and arrange the melon in a single layer on a serving platter. Add the arugula to the work bowl and add enough dressing to coat lightly. Toss and arrange on top of the melon. Repeat with the peeled shrimp and arrange on top of the arugula. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

• Per serving (6 servings): 186 calories; 11 g protein; 8 g carbohydrates; 1 g fiber; 13 g fat; 2 g saturated fat; 90 mg cholesterol; 116 mg sodium.

This is a prettier and more interesting version of a traditional melon-and-prosciutto appetizer. Serve with chilled prosecco or moscato d'Asti (inexpensive Italian sparkling wines). There will be a lot of melon scraps; save them for breakfast.

MELON BITES WITH PROSCIUTTO AND BASIL

• 1 (4- to 5-pound) Crenshaw or other orange-fleshed melon
• 1 small bunch basil
• 1/4 pound thinly sliced prosciutto or jamon serrano

Prepare the melon: Cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut each half in half again lengthwise. Cut the tips from the ends of each quarter, leaving a chunk of melon with an interior that is roughly flat.

Stand one-quarter of a melon on its end and carefully cut away the peel. Don't try to save too much — the melon closest to the rind doesn't have much flavor. Cut 1 slice from the center to leave it perfectly flat. Carefully cut the melon that remains into 3 slices, each about one-quarter-inch thick. Use a sharp knife and a slow, even stroke to do this. You should have a rectangular sheet of melon of even thickness. Repeat with the remaining quarters.

Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the work surface and position 1 melon layer in the center. Cut 1 slice of prosciutto in half and arrange it over the top to cover as much melon as possible. Trim and fit pieces as necessary. Cover this with another melon layer and repeat with another slice of prosciutto. Cover with a third melon layer. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and press down firmly on top. Repeat with a second quarter and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

With the remaining 2 stacks, lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the work surface and position 1 melon layer in the center. Arrange 3 small basil leaves on top and cover with another melon layer. Arrange 3 more basil leaves on top, preferably pointing in a 90-degree angle to those on the first layer. Cover with a third melon layer. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and press down firmly on top. Repeat with the remaining quarter and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

When ready to serve, unwrap a melon stack. Trim the rough edges to make each side perfectly even. Cut the stack in half lengthwise, then in half crosswise; cut each crosswise half in half again. This will result in 8 bite-size pieces. Skewer each with a toothpick and arrange them on a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining melon stacks.

Serves 6 to 8.

• Per serving (6 servings): 54 calories; 5 g protein; 5 g carbohydrates; 1 g fiber; 2 g fat; 1 g saturated fat; 13 mg cholesterol; 282 mg sodium.

Try this with several different wines. It works well with Muscat-based wines such as Moscato or Beaumes de Venise. But a good-quality white Port, such as the one made by Ramos Pinto (available at selected fine wine shops), is the perfect match.

HONEYDEW ICE WITH BLACKBERRIES AND WHITE PORT

• 1 (4- to 5-pound) honeydew melon
• 3 to 4 tablespoons sugar
• 1 pint blackberries, blueberries or raspberries
• 2 tablespoons white Port

Cut the melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Using a spoon, scoop out chunks of melon flesh, putting them in a food processor work bowl. Don't dig too deep — the melon close to the peel has a strong cucumber flavor.

Purée the melon and stir in 2 tablespoons sugar. Taste and add one more tablespoon if necessary. Because chilling reduces flavor, the mixture should be very sweet.

Pour the purée into a 7- by 11-inch glass baking dish (or another dish that will hold the purée to a depth of three-quarters to 1 inch). Freeze the purée for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the freezer and stir the purée with a fork, breaking up any chunks of ice. Repeat 4 or 5 times over 2 to 3 hours. Each time, the ice will be a little less liquid and will stick together more. When it is firm enough to hold a shape, it is done.

Try not to let the melon ice freeze solid. If it does, chop it into small pieces in the pan and grind it in the food processor.(The result will be lighter and fluffier and the flavor will not be as dense and luscious.)

Stir together the berries with 1 tablespoon sugar and the Port. Let the fruit mixture sit for 10 to 15 minutes.

To serve, spoon the melon ice into martini or short wine glasses and spoon some of the berries with their liqueur over the top of each.

Serves 4 to 6.