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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, September 29, 2004

RAISE A GLASS
Syrah next big hit in wine world

By Brian Geiser

Heads up to all who live ahead of the curve: Syrah is the key word in any search for the next big thing in grape variety. The northern Rhone area is the historical home for syrah, but production declined in the '50s and '60s as industrialization lured farmers off the land.

For the past 10 years, California has been planting this deep purple grape and production has skyrocketed. In 1980 there were only 81 acres of syrah, and now there are 16,000 acres planted in California. Joseph Phelps and Gary Eberle pioneered this grape 40 years ago and since it transplants well, today it can be found in Australia, South Africa, South America and Italy. Australia is a leading producer of syrah, which they call shiraz.

Here's an interesting point: Syrah translates the subtle variations of terroir (the climate, soil, unique conditions of a growing area and savoir faire). Try a syrah from California and a shiraz and notice the similarities and differences. Recognizable traits are earthy, rustic, tannic, peppery qualities, along with nuances of black fruits, chocolate, leather and bacon fat. As you taste, it's fun to look for some of these descriptions. The experience of looking for leather in a wine makes good conversation starter.

Syrah is going to be more popular than pinot noir, and it's less expensive. Growth is going to come from consumers who are willing to experiment. If you like to arrive in advance of popular opinion, take some time to taste and learn about this next big thing. I predict syrah will lead the way for other grapes such as grenache and mourvedre. I'll write more about this later.

Back to syrah: Here are a few food and wine pairing suggestions to get you started:

• Ojai Syrah "Bien Nacido" with grilled steak to savor its power, black fruit, and peppery qualities. About $22

• Rock Rabbit Syrah Central Coast for its explosive fruit and gentle tannins. Great with roasted chicken. About $10.

• Foxen Santa Barbara for its complexity and elegance. Try it with grilled lamb chops. About $23.

Brian Geiser is the sommelier at Chef Mavro restaurant, 944-4714. The Raise a Glass column is published every other week and is prepared by a rotating group of wine experts.