"You can see it in guests' eyes when they step off the elevator," said Jones, who has worked his way up from server to his current position. "It doesn't matter how many times they've been up here, they're always taken by the view."

(Here's a tip: Ask for table one if you want an intimate booth or request table 100 for a romantic two-top table. Both boast some of the best sunset and marina views.)

But it's not only about the ambiance here, as Jones will quickly point out.

"We've got it all, from service to food," he said. "You certainly can't go wrong."

This is especially true for patrons who come in to take advantage of Sarento's early evening dinner.

"We offer this during the off-season, which usually lasts until Thanksgiving," said reservations manager Wes Nakamura. "We get a lot of locals who come in for this special."

Available nightly (except on special holidays) from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., the three-course dinner is priced at $26.95, which includes a choice of appetizer, entree and dessert.

And unlike other so-called "early-bird" dinners — which often only offer a choice among three entrees — Sarento's features eight selections, including a petit four-ounce filet, Milanese-style veal, catch of the day, and linguine and clams.

When it comes to appetizers, guests have five dishes from which to choose.

A sure-bet is Sarento's house-smoked salmon, which is vertically presented with layered crisp wafers and topped with Avruga caviar.

A heartier starter is the bruschetta rustica, a Tuscan country-style bread that's slathered with extra virgin oil then stacked with grilled slices of eggplant, diced Roma tomatoes, garlic, basil and feta cheese.

Traditionalists may want to opt for the Caesar alla Sarento's, the classic Italian salad prepared with baby romaine, roasted garlic and tossed with ciabatta crostini.

Two other options feature the crispy calamari served with a side of zesty tomato-and-caper sauce and lemon aioli; and the cashew-crusted New Zealand mussels served in a savory garlic broth.

"For the money and what you get, you can't beat this dinner," Jones said. "It's fine dining without the fine-dining prices."

The filet mignon is a case in point. As an a la carte entree item, this tender piece of steak would easily command a $30 — at the low end — price tag.

"The entrees we've chosen are some of our more popular ones from our a la carte menu," Jones said. "And this includes the filet."

Brushed with a grainy Italian-style country mustard, the filet is cooked to preferred temperature then finished with buffalo mozzarella and crispy Maui onions, and surrounded by a puddle of rich porcini mushroom sauce.

An equally beefy entree is the penne Bolognese, which is prepared with slowly-cooked meats in a tomato base sauce. This is simple and basic Italian cuisine at its best.

Vegetarians — and even non-vegetarians — have two choices: the eggplant parmesan, which offers slices of breaded eggplant that are blanketed with a tarty marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese; and spaghettini pomodoro, made with Roma tomatoes, garlic and fresh basil.

For dessert, choose from the creamy chocolate or vanilla bean gelato, mango or raspberry sorbet, or the profiteroles.