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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, April 6, 2005

Making these desserts a piece of cake

 •  Downsized dessert
 •  Cans come in handy

Knight Ridder News Service

Debby Maugans Nakos has made a career out of tiny, small-batch baking that allows you to have your cake without a lot of tempting leftovers lying around. Here are some recipes.

"I began making raspberry cheesecakes for friends' birthdays, and they gained such a delicious reputation that a neighborhood French restaurant asked me to make some for them! With its creamy-smooth, wildly raspberry red cheesecake layer, accentuated by a thin layer of luscious chocolate, it makes a terrific Valentine's Day dessert, too."

CHOCOLATE-GLAZED RASPBERRY CHEESECAKES

For the raspberry reduction:

  • 2 cups (about 8 ounces) frozen unsweetened raspberries, thawed but not drained
  • 1/4 cup sugar

For the cans and crust:

  • Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the cans
  • 1/2 cup crushed chocolate wafers (about 10 wafers)
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the cheesecake filling:

  • 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • Yolk of 1 large egg
  • 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For the rich ganache:

  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
  • 5 ounces imported bittersweet chocolate (such as Lindt), finely chopped
  • Fresh raspberries, for garnish

Pans required: 3 (8-ounce) cans, 1 baking sheet.

For the raspberry reduction: Place a fine-mesh sieve over a small saucepan, and press the raspberries and juices through it. Press down hard on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Scrape off the pulp clinging to the outside bottom of the sieve and add it to the pulp in the saucepan. Stir in the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves. Boil, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is reduced to 3 tablespoons, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the reduction cool completely.

Place a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease the insides of the cans. Place the cans on a piece of parchment paper and trace around the circumference. Cut out 3 parchment rounds and line the bottom of the cans with them. Place the cans on a baking sheet for easier handling, and set it aside.

For the crust: Place the crushed cookies and the sugar in a small bowl, and stir to mix. Add the melted butter and toss with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Spoon the crumb mixture into the prepared cans, dividing it evenly among them. Gently press down the crumb mixture with your fingertips. Bake 10 minutes.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven, and transfer it to a wire rack. Let the crusts cool with the cans on while you prepare the cheesecake filling. Keep the oven on.

For the cheesecake filling: Place the cream cheese and sugar in a medium-size mixing bowl and beat with a hand-held mixer on medium speed just until the mixture is smooth and creamy, about 45 seconds. Add the egg and egg yolk, reduce the mixer speed to low, and beat just until they are blended into the cream cheese mixture, 15 to 20 seconds.

Then beat in the cooled raspberry reduction, cream and vanilla just until blended, 15 to 20 seconds. Spoon the batter into the crusts, dividing it evenly among them. Return the cheesecakes to the oven on the baking sheet and bake the cheesecakes until they are just set, 27 minutes.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the cheesecakes to a wire rack. Let them cool completely in the cans. Then cover and refrigerate 6 hours or overnight.

For the ganache: Pour the cream into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate, whirling to submerge the chocolate in the hot cream. Let the mixture stand until the chocolate softens, about 1 minute. Then stir with a whisk until the chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Allow it to cool to lukewarm, about 1 hour. Then use immediately.

To serve, run a sharp knife around the insides of the cans to loosen the cheesecakes. Gently turn the cakes out, remove the parchment, and place them upright on the wire rack. Spoon the ganache over the cheesecakes, and use a spatula to smooth it over the top and sides. Arrange fresh raspberries on the tops and refrigerate the cheesecakes until the ganache is just firm, about 20 minutes, then transfer to serving plates. (The cheesecakes will keep, loosely covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Makes 3 cheesecakes, one serving each.

• Per serving (one cake): 971 calories (67 percent from fat), 78 g total fat (46 grams saturated), 222 mg cholesterol, 73 g carbohydrate, 14 g protein, 355 mg sodium, 13 g dietary fiber

• • •

"This cake contains coconut in two different forms — creamed and in flakes — and the frosting also has an intense coconut flavor. The coconut is so prominent that you'll feel like you're sitting near a palm tree in a tropical paradise."

COCONUT LAYER CAKE

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the cans
  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for flouring the cans
  • 1 medium egg
  • 3 tablespoons well-stirred canned sweetened cream of coconut (such as Coco Lopez, see note)
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup sweetened flaked coconut
  • Coconut Cream Frosting (recipe follows)

Pans required: 2 (14- or 14.5-ounce) cans, 1 baking sheet.

Place rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Grease the insides of the cans and lightly dust them with flour, tapping out the excess. Place the cans on a baking sheet for easier handling, and set aside.

Place the egg, cream of coconut and vanilla in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon water and whisk to mix.

Place the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a medium-size mixing bowl and whisk to blend well. Add the butter and the egg mixture. Beat with hand-held mixer on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase the speed to medium and beat until the mixture is lightened and increased in volume, about 1 minute.

Spoon the batter into the prepared cans, dividing it evenly between them. Bake the cakes until a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the cans to a wire rack to cool 15 minutes. (Leave the oven on.) Then run a thin, sharp knife around the edge of each can, and invert them to release the cakes. Place the cakes upright on the rack and let them cool completely.

While the cakes are cooling, spread the coconut on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring once, until it is lightly toasted, 10 to 12 minutes.

To frost the cakes, cut each cake in half horizontally. Spread a layer of Coconut Cream Frosting about 1/2-inch thick on the cut side of one cake half, then stack the other half on top of it. Frost the top and sides of the cake. Repeat with remaining cake and frosting. Sprinkle the toasted coconut all over the frosting, pressing it into the frosting. (The cakes can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated, covered. Let them return to room temperature before serving.)

Note: Cream of coconut is the secret flavor ingredient here. After you measure out the 3 tablespoons, pour the rest into a jar, cover it, and store in the refrigerator for up to a month. Use it to flavor sweet and savory rice dishes and broth for Thai dishes. Substitute a tablespoon or two for whipping cream when making chocolate ganache, or substitute some for the cream when making fudge. A little bit stirred into your morning latte is delicious — you need only a teaspoon.

COCONUT CREAM FROSTING

  • 1/2 cup cold heavy whipping cream
  • 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar
  • 1 tablespoon well-stirred canned sweetened cream of coconut (such as Coco Lopez)
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Place the cream, confectioners' sugar, cream of coconut and vanilla in a small mixing bowl and beat with a hand-held electric mixer until firm peaks form, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 hour. Makes about 1 cup.

Makes 2 cakes, 1 serving each.

• Per serving (one cake): 921 calories (51 percent from fat), 53 g total fat (34 g saturated), 222 mg cholesterol, 106 g carbohydrate, 9 g protein, 280 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber