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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, April 10, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
New entrees merit 'heavenly' praise

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Dressed in chic black, longtime servers Chester Chin and Ron Kano, from left, offer guests fresh oysters and fish. Working behind the scenes, from left, are Jim Okano, Joffrey Gascon, Reece Taira and Micah Herndon.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Le Bistro

Where: 5730 Kalanianaole Hwy., Niu Valley Shopping Center

Call: 373-7990

Hours: Nightly — except Tuesdays — from 5:30 to 9 p.m.

Somehow it seemed appropriate that Irving Berlin's "I'm in Heaven" was playing when G.B. and I were seated at our table at Le Bistro.

It was a special occasion and Berlin's classic tune set the mood for what would turn out to be a stellar dining-out experience at this casual fine-dining, unpretentious "neighborhood" restaurant.

Now in its third year, Le Bistro has gracefully matured in every conceivable manner, from looks to service to food. Its owners have defied the odds, succeeding in a spot — in Niu Valley Shopping Center —where many other restaurateurs have failed.

But Debbie and Alan Takasaki have soared. A one-time timid elementary school teacher with absolutely zero restaurant experience — except for eating at them — Debbie has become the consummate hostess, greeting guests and working the room like a pro.

Meanwhile, hubby Alan has refined his menu to a point that had G.B. and I stupefied — and it wasn't because of the split of champagne, either. Since our last visit, new entrees, such as a 21-ounce, bone-in rib eye and whole moi, have been added, and so too have a wagyu kobe-style steak and halibut.

Our good-humored waiter Chester recited the day's specials while pointing to an insert that helped us keep up with his lengthy recital.

Asking if he confused us, G.B. and I both answered no, adding that we would start with an appetizer, which would buy us time before we had to select our entrees.

Choosing our starters became a see-saw adventure. But, I finally convinced G.B. to order the silky-textured foie gras ($19.80) — my ulterior motive was obvious since this is one of my favorites here — and I would share my French onion soup ($6.80), which was topped with a gooey layer of Gruyere cheese.

Trained in classic French cuisine, Alan's foie gras possesses a je-ne-sais-quoi quality and tastes as good as those found at fine-dining French restaurants. We broke off pieces of the crusty bread just so we could sop up the delicate balsamic-laced sauce.

Returning with a grimace to our table, Chester correctly guessed that G.B. would have the fresh halibut ($28.80) and I would opt for the 21-ounce rib eye ($35.80).

Steamed, the flaky Alaskan halibut was delightfully presented with black chanterelles and then topped — at the table — with a velvety lobster nage. In G.B.'s words, oh la la!

Charred on the outside, my well-marbled, medium-rare steak was a mouthwatering cut of beef that you usually only find at the best steakhouses.

Yes, we were in heaven.