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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, April 13, 2005

RAISE A GLASS
Wines, Kona coffee liqueur make April less taxing

By JoAnn Chisholm-Dueno

Tax time is here again and I cannot think of a better way to get through it than indulging in some delightful libations to ease the pain. Pinching our pennies just a tad more during this time of year, we search for the ultimate bargains available. Something absolutely delicious, that tastes like liquid velvet and does not dig too deeply into our pockets, and may even have a little history.

We may be craving a wine that is light, crisp, with layers of wonderful, complex flavors such as Curtis 2002 Heritage Blanc ($11), a classic Rhone-style blend that hails from the coastal climates of Santa Barbara County. Boasting a striking bouquet of honeysuckle, pear and lemon zest. Santa Barbara is not just for pinot noir!

Curtis Winery is owned by the Firestone family and overseen by winemaker Chuck Carlson, one of the original "Rhone Rangers." Since the 1980s, Carlson has passionately and exclusively dedicated himself to growing Rhone varietals in the Santa Barbara area.

Taking advantage of the unique microclimates as well as the variations of soils and elevations in that region, he grows viognier, roussanne, and marsanne for white varietals, grenache and mourvedre with a particular love for syrah for the reds. He is committed to the traditional methods of "hands-on, pumps-off" winemaking, such as classic basket pressing and gravity flow, as opposed to using machinery to process the grapes.

Ease the pain of tax season by selecting a wine that doesn't cost too much, is crisp and features layers of wonderful, complex flavors.

Michael Walker • Chicago Tribune

Perhaps you are looking for a red with a bit of backbone yet not too "big." I suggest Ehlers Estate Merlot, Napa Valley ($24). The dark, red color leads into aromas of nutty oak, plums and anise. This is a bigger-than-usual merlot with characteristic varietal flavors of chocolate, coffee, plum and clove.

The estate and winery was founded in 1886 by Bernard Ehlers and eventually were sold parcel by parcel after his death in 1901. Several small wineries such as Conn Creek Winery, Vichon Winery and Saintsbury Winery, formed from that estate during the early 1900s.

In 1987, Jean and Sylviane Leducq purchased seven acres of the original 42, and continued to purchase contiguous lots as they became available. In 2001, they purchased the winery building, Ehlers Estate home and the last of the original lots, reuniting the estate. The stewardship of Ehlers Estate is now in the hands of the Leducq Foundation and set up as a nonprofit whose sole purpose is funding international cardiovascular research. You may even find a way to write this wine purchase off in your taxes!

The Leducq family and Leducq Foundation are committed to the continued maintenance and prosperity of this historic property. They are making world-class, estate-grown wine, having hired talented winemaker Rudy Zuidema, (formerly of Robert Craig winery). And they are replanting traditional Bordeaux varietals — cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot — and practicing biodynamic, sustainable farming methods first introduced to the United States in 1924 by Rudolph Steiner.

Now, for dessert, try Hawai'i's own Kona Gold Coffee Liqueur, made from 100 percent Kona coffee. In 1979, a gentleman from Germany by the name of Dr. Rod R. Dvornik came to Hawai'i for a little rest and relaxation and met the owners of Aloha Distillers Inc. After a year of extensive research, Dvornik presented a formulation for a liqueur using 100 percent pure Kona coffee, no other flavoring added. Kona Gold Liqueur ($20) was born. It's the only such liqueur in the world and it truly gives Kahlua a run for its money and generally sells for less, too.

Dvornik received his doctorate from the agricultural academy in Hohenheim. His thorough knowledge of the production, quality and uniformity of alcoholic beverages covers whiskies, brandy, vodka, gin, cocktails and liqueurs, which include the most important stages of product development. He has worked with Hiram Walker and Sons and Seagram & Sons as well as with distillers from France and Germany.

It may not help out with your taxes if you purchase a bottle of this liqueur, but it will surely help out our local coffee growers, which gives back to our own economy. And it is delicious over ice cream.

JoAnn Chisholm-Dueno owns Wine Lady Hawaii Inc., a fine-wine management and brokerage firm. Reach her at 293-4127 or see www.wineladyhawaii.com.