If you can "doctor," you can make homemade sauce, especially with all the conveniences of modern life, including frozen chopped onions (found near other frozen foods), sliced fresh mushrooms (found in produce) and canned crushed tomatoes that are lumpy enough but not too lumpy.

The wine in this recipe is optional. You can use unfinished bottles at times like these, when a splash of wine will add another level of flavor to a sauce. You shouldn't bother to buy wine just to put in this recipe.

VEGETARIAN SPAGHETTI SAUCE

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion (or 1 cup frozen, chopped onion)
• 3 to 5 peeled garlic cloves, up to 1 tablespoon, minced
• 8 ounces sliced mushrooms
• 1/4 cup dry red or white wine, optional
• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning or dried basil
• 28 ounces canned crushed tomatoes

Heat olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add chopped onion. Cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bits begin to brown. Add garlic. Cook another minute. While onions are cooking, coarsely chop the sliced mushrooms — no need to be exacting about this, just cut them up a little more. Add mushrooms to the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they have browned somewhat. If desired, add a little wine to the pan, and boil vigorously until it has disappeared. Add seasoning, tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste. Allow the mixture to simmer on low heat about 10 minutes or until it has thickened. Serve over long noodles such as vermicelli or spaghetti, or use whenever a dish calls for red sauce (in lasagna, to cook chicken or beef, etc.). Serve with salad and bread.

Serves four.