He's a jovial and humble guy who has cooked for the royalty of Monaco, and the rich and famous on the Riviera. He has earned his stars from the rigorously-rated Michelin guide and he once held the role as "Culinary Ambassador" for Monaco.

However, for the past decade, chef Garnier has been in charge of the kitchen at La Mer, where he has faced the formidable challenge of pleasing the palates of the hotel's national and international guests, while keeping in check local residents' discerning taste buds, including G.B.'s and mine.

The occasion was a special anniversary for us, which justified a splurge at this gracious AAA Five Diamond award-winning restaurant.

As our waiter Dan has done for the past two decades — he told us — he poured G.B. and me a glass each of champagne, allowing us to sink into our chairs and share a toast in front of a dipping sun. Yes, it was trés romantique!

Even before we were presented with a menu, another waiter Chris delivered an amuse bouche, which was a dollar-coin-sized quiche that's meant to prime the appetite.

And that it did.

Given that we were dining at a French restaurant, it seemed apropos to order the classic foie gras appetizer ($34).

We chose different preparations: G.B.'s thick slice of liver was seared and set in a puddle of port-wine reduction then surrounded by a confit made with date and limes, which added a sweet zesty punctuation to the delicate meat. My cut was equally impressive and probably even more so, given that it was topped with truffles that were the last pieces from last winter's harvest, according to Garnier, who stopped at guests' tables to welcome them and to check on their dinner.

A neighboring table of Japanese tourists — a family of four, who apparently were indulging in Garnier's lavish nine-course "Degustation" menu — gave their enthusiastic nods of approval, proving that Garnier has now become La Mer's "Culinary Ambassador."

Before our main entree, we were served an intermezzo, which was a palate cleansing dollop of lavender sorbet that our waiter Chris told us chef Garnier had just recently introduced. The floral essence of the lavender worked well and accomplished its purpose — to refresh the taste buds before the main attraction.

And this is the point when Garnier shows his tour de force, separating himself from being a chef to being "le chef."

His single page list of entrees features a bountiful array of fresh Island fish prepared using classic French techniques. (His dishes are certainly not for the calorie-conscious diner.)

La Mer-style bouillabaisse ($41) served in a puff pastry, the symphony of hamachi enhanced with an aromatic saffron sauce ($43) and the Big Island lobster Navarin ($44) all sounded tempting.

In the end, though, G.B. ordered Garnier's signature crispy-skin fillet of onaga ($39), which was drizzled with a truffle jus and served with tomato confit and fried basil. In a word, magnifique!

(By the way, when choosing a wine, have the knowledgeable and trusty Randy Ching select it — he's never wrong.)

I, on the other hand, opted for the Kobe-style beef ($53), offering a trio of preparations: carpaccio-style with parmesan shavings, a petit tournedos of beef with bone marrow and a two-ounce portion of filet. Each had its distinct taste, with none interfering with the flavor of the other. This was true French indulgence, from the accompanying rich sauces to the aesthetic presentation.