In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Saute spinach with salt just until leaves are wilted. Drain off excess liquid; reserve spinach.

Wipe out skillet and melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Saute onion until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add cumin, cardamom, coriander and turmeric and stir to combine. Add cooked rice, tomatoes and reserved spinach and cook, stirring gently to combine, just until the rice is warmed through. Serve warm.

Makes 4-6 servings.

• Per serving (based on 6): 163 calories, 5 gm protein, 18 gm carbohydrates, 9 gm fat, 22 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 894 mg sodium, 9 gm dietary fiber

This version of spinach quickly sauteed with garlic and olive oil adds the high-impact flavor of sesame and ginger. It's also a versatile side dish — serve it warm, at room temperature or cold. It goes well with roasted chicken and fish.

Adapted from "Alfred Portale Simple Pleasures: Home Cooking From the Gotham Bar and Grill's Acclaimed Chef" by Alfred Portale and Andrew Friedman (HarperCollins, 2004):

Sauteed Spinach with Garlic, Ginger and Sesame Oil

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 8 cups tightly packed spinach leaves (about 2 bunches or 5- to
• 7-ounce bag of spinach leaves)
• 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral-flavored oil
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peeled, grated ginger root
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds (optional)

Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add a pinch of salt, butter, spinach and cook just until wilted, about 20 seconds. Drain the spinach and spread it on a wire rack set over a baking sheet to cool as quickly as possible. Place the spinach in a clean kitchen towel and gently squeeze out the excess water. Set aside.

In a large saute pan over medium heat, cook the grapeseed oil, garlic and ginger, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the spinach and saute for 1 minute, until heated through. Add the sesame oil and stir. Adjust the salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the spinach to a warmed serving bowl, or let it cool and serve at room temperature or cold.

If desired, toast the sesame seeds in the skillet in which the spinach was cooked, and sprinkle over the spinach.

Makes 4 servings.

• Per serving: 112 calories, 2 gm protein, 2 gm carbohydrates, 11 gm fat, 8 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 147 mg sodium, 6 gm fiber

This gratin tastes similar to a spinach souffle but is denser in texture and much easier to make. It can be a main dish or appetizer. Cut it into squares or diamonds and serve it warm with a tomato or marinara sauce and grated parmesan, or at room temperature garnished with roasted red peppers.

Adapted from "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books, 1997):

Cottage Cheese and Spinach Gratin

• Vegetable oil for the baking dish
• 1 pound spinach (about 2 bunches or 1 1/2 10-ounce bags)
• 5 eggs, beaten
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon dill seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 2 cups small-curd cottage cheese (nonfat or low-fat is fine)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Warm marinara sauce or grated parmesan cheese (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously oil an 8-by-10-inch gratin dish or a 9-inch-square baking pan.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the spinach with the water clinging to its leaves, tossing frequently, until the spinach is barely wilted. (Not all the spinach will fit into the skillet at first. Add some first; then, as it cooks down, add the rest.) Press out the liquid from the wilted spinach and reserve it. Finely chop the spinach.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, parsley, dill, coriander, cottage cheese, salt and a little pepper. Stir in the chopped spinach and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking liquid and mix well. Bake in the prepared dish until set, about 45 minutes. Let cool 5 to 10 minutes. To serve, cut into diamonds or squares. Top with warm marinara sauce and/or grated cheese.

Makes 6 servings.