This is the time for asparagus prepared every way — steamed with a dressing of hot butter and diced hard-boiled eggs, baked in casseroles or grilled over charcoal.

Asparagus with a homemade vinaigrette is an easy all-purpose salad (though you can serve it warm). Learn to make dressing and you can eat well.

The mustard in this recipe is prepared, not powdered; it is brownish or brownish-yellow and grainy — something other than bright yellow ballpark style. Use leftover dressing to marinate chicken or beef for grilling on another night.

ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE

• 1 pound asparagus
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons Dijon or other European-style mustard
• Juice of one-half lemon
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• Pepper to taste

Fill a deep, wide skillet with 2 to 3 inches of water. Cover, and place over high heat. Bring to a boil.

As the water boils, cut the tough ends off the asparagus. The asparagus should lay flat in the skillet. Add salt to the water if desired, then add the asparagus. Cook two to seven minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Drain, then rinse with cold water. Place the asparagus on a clean dish towel and pat dry.

As the asparagus cooks, pour olive oil into a wide, shallow bowl. Add mustard and beat to mix. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper, and beat again. Taste and adjust seasoning — if it's bland, add a little more salt. If it's oily, add a little more lemon juice. Serve with chicken and boiled noodles or new potatoes.

Makes 4 servings.

• Per serving: 150 calories, 14 grams fat, 3 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrate, 3 grams fiber, 180 milligrams sodium.

QUICK CHICKEN

• 1 1/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast tenders or halves (cut in pieces if large)
• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon (freshly ground) pepper
• 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

Sprinkle chicken with Italian seasoning, salt and pepper. Over medium-high heat, warm the oil in a wide skillet large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer. Add the chicken pieces, and cook without moving them for two minutes if tenders, three minutes if larger pieces. Flip the chicken, and cook two to four minutes more, depending on the size of the chicken pieces. Remove to serving plates.

Makes 4 servings.

• Per serving: 284 calories, 12 grams fat, 44 grams protein, no carbohydrate, no fiber, 400 milligrams sodium.