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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, August 7, 2005

COVER STORY
Seafood tasting offers 'best of the best'

Sansei servers include, from left, Richard Simms, Malia Nahale, Ali Clark, Naia Bradshaw and Zach Toyofuku.

Photos by Randy T. Fujimori


Sansei

Where: Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 2552 Kalakaua Ave.

Call: 931-6286

Hours: Daily from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Parking: $3 validated self-parking or $7 validated valet parking

Note: d.k Steakhouse is located in the adjoining room (931-6280)

When Greg Gabaon signals for a triple option, he's not talking about handing the football off to a fullback, defensive end or slotback. Instead, the Sansei head sushi chef — or "quarterback" as he's sometimes called when he's behind the sushi counter — is calling for the ahi variation, a trio of fresh ahi carpaccio, shichimi-spiced seared ahi and nigiri-style spiced ahi.

"Like in football, the quarterback here plays a pivotal role," said general manager Tom Alejado, who moved here from the Kihei Sansei to oversee the restaurant's transition from Restaurant Row to the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa almost a year ago. "It's a rotating position. And whoever is in that role that night is responsible for handing off the orders and controlling the flow of the bar."

It's a tall order, especially on Sundays and Mondays between 5:30 and 6 p.m., when scores of Sansei fans come in to take advantage of the 50-percent discount on all items, with the exception of three entrees.

"We call it our 'Mahalo Nights' to say thank you to all kamaaina," said Ivy Nagayama, who manages d.k Steakhouse next door. "We bring them in waves until all the seats are taken. It's an incredible scene and there's a lot of energy."

As Nagayama and Alejado were quick to point out, guests don't have to leave within a half an hour. They just have to place their orders by 6 p.m.

"They're certainly welcome to stay a lot longer," Nagayama said. "We tell them to relax and enjoy the ocean view, which is something we couldn't say when we were at Restaurant Row."

Since moving to the Marriott, Sansei has tweaked its menu with the help of executive chef Garrett Cho, who started with the company back in February.

"We're upgrading the type of seafood we offer," said Cho, whose resume includes stints with Randy Schoch's Desert Island Restaurants and Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited Inc., which operates Ryan's, Kincaid's and Palomino. "We're working closely with our vendors to obtain whatever is fresh on the market."

Right now, it's ahi, hence the trio variation ($14.95). Of the three, the ahi carpaccio is most notable because of the dollop of soy-mustard glaze and a tiny garlic chip that lends a crunchy texture to the otherwise silky, thinly-sliced ahi.

"I do specials every night or every week," Gabaon said. "It just depends on what's available and what's fresh."

Tom Alejado says Sansei's extensive wine list includes this Opus One.
Currently, three of his sushi specials include the "Dragon Fly," the "Hawaii Five-O" and the "Holy Cow!" roll, which is the reaction guests have when they bite into this tempura roll made with cream cheese and shrimp, according to Gabaon.

"People love it," he said. "Even Mainland tourists who aren't familiar with sushi like it."

In addition to a laundry list of starters, sushi and entrees, Alejado and Cho have developed a new "Omakase Seafood Menu" for two for $65.

"The menu features all the award-winning dishes that have made D.K. who he is today," Alejado said. "They're the best of the best."

The menu includes such signature dishes as the mango-and-crab-salad handroll, panko-crusted fresh ahi sashimi, Asian rock shrimp dynamite — this one explodes with flavor — and DK's Dungeness crab ramen made with black-truffle butter.

"If you like Dungeness crab, this is it," Alejado said. "You'll never try anything like it."