Here's something to try if you're looking for a summer dessert that's not too heavy: lemon cookies with a fresh strawberry filling.

The recipe comes from Emily Luchetti, pastry chef at Farallon restaurant in San Francisco and twice winner of a James Beard Foundation award.

She urges readers not to be put off by the length of ingredients list. This is an easy two-part recipe that can be made well ahead of time: Combine strawberries, sugar and flavorings and cook to a jam consistently. While that's cooking, you make a quick sugar cookie batter in the mixer. Shape this into logs, refrigerate and cut when you're ready to bake. (You need to refrigerate them at least an hour, so plan accordingly.)

The cooks are light-textured with a nice acid-to-sugar balance from the lemon juice.

They're elegant enough to make as a special gift for a friend, or as an end to a company dinner. And they're not overly sweet. But kids will still like them.

STRAWBERRY-FILLED LEMON COOKIES

For the filling:

2 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Dash of salt

For the cookies:

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon salt

To make filling: Combine strawberries, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and dash of salt in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until mixture is jam-like and reduces to about 1/2 cup. Set aside to cool to room temperature, or refrigerate.

To make the cookies: Combine butter and 1/2 cup of the sugar in a bowl. With an electric mixer, beat until smooth and creamy. Beat in lemon zest and juice.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Whisk gently to blend. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add to the butter mixture, stirring just until incorporated.

On a lightly floured work surface, shape dough into two 1-inch logs, each about 10 inches long, and wrap tightly in plastic. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Remove plastic wrap from dough. Cut each log into 24 slices about 3/8-inch thick. Place an inch apart on prepared baking sheets. Sprinkle remaining sugar over the tops. Bake until barely golden at the edges, 12 to 14 minutes. Cool 5 minutes on the baking sheets; then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.

Turn half the cookies sugar-side down; spread the flat side of each with 1 teaspoon strawberry filling. Place remaining cookies on top, sugar-side up, pressing gently to form a sandwich.

Note: Filled cookies soften quickly; assemble just before serving. Makes 24 sandwich cookies.