Omega-3, good. Omega-6, not as good.

Omega-3 fatty acids are found in salmon and other fatty fish, walnuts and flax seed.

Omega-6 fatty acids are widely available in nearly all vegetable oils.

In addition, cows that graze eat a better balance of omega-3 to omega-6. Those that are fed grains incorporate all that omega-6 into their own tissues.

In our constant progress toward diets with more grain-fed beef and processed foods, we have uncannily upended the healthy ratio of these essential fats in our diets.

We eat too little omega-3, too much omega-6.

Why worry? Purdue University researchers think eating too much omega-6 may be one reason Americans have such poor bone health.

The translation of science to diet is fairly straightforward: Eat more walnuts and fatty fish.

Nothing particularly new there.

The American Heart Association lists salmon and herring as among the highest omega-3 fish with the lowest risk of mercury contamination.

POACHED LEMON SALMON

2 lemons

2 tablespoons butter

1 bunch green onions

2 bay leaves

4 six-ounce salmon fillets

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

8 ounces bottled clam juice

Remove the yellow peel of the two lemons with a potato peeler.

Melt the butter over low heat in a skillet wide enough to hold the fish in one layer. Add lemon peel. Trim green onions, chop them and add them to the dish along with bay leaves. Sprinkle fish with coriander, then lay the fish in the skillet. Squeeze lemons over fish.

Add clam juice and 2 cups water. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then reduce to low and simmer 10 minutes. Remove fish to serving plates, and boil liquid down to about one-third cup. Strain over fish and serve.

Serves 4.