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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, August 21, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
Filipino cuisine a 'sleeper,' says chef

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Chefs Aurelio Garcia and Sam Choy plan to celebrate the Filipino culture with a festival later this year.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

N ews that Cris Comerford, a naturalized U.S. citizen from the Philippines, was appointed as the White House executive chef got me thinking about our own homegrown Filipino chefs who hold similar positions at some of the Island's more popular restaurants. So here they are.

Roberto Los Banos at Bali by the Sea (Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa, 949-4321) leads his "Bali-hui" of cooks at this fine-dining restaurant. And although he may not be cooking for Laura and George, Los Banos has prepared a meal for former President Bill Clinton.

And no, he didn't serve him french fries and a cheeseburger, but his signature ahi trap and sauteed opakapaka.

Elmer Guzman has worked side by side such culinary giants as Emeril Lagasse and Sam Choy. He's a published author and he's also the owner of the Poke Stop (Waipahu Town Center, 676-8100), where he's preparing everything from Nawlins-style French beignets to surf-and-turf dinners to crispy ahi fingers.

"It's nice that Filipinos are now being recognized in the culinary world," Guzman says. "And it couldn't have happened at a better time with the Filipino Centennial celebration planned for next year."

With the help of Breakfast, Lunch & Crab (580 N. Nimitz Hwy., 545-7979) chef Aurelio Garcia, Sam Choy is hoping to put on his own Filipino Festival later this year.

"Most of the cooks back there are Filipinos," said Choy of the BLC kitchen staff. "They've got strong work ethics and they can cook with the best of them."

A 28-year veteran at Hy's Steak House (2440 Kuhio Ave., 922-5555), Almar Arcano has prepared dinners for movie stars and visiting dignitaries alike at this toney, landmark Waikiki restaurant.

His 16-ounce, kiawe-grilled Delmonico is legendary among visitors, as is the tartare that's made with ground filet mignon.

From Acqua to Don Ho's to Meritage to Ocean House, Mariano Lalica is now the executive chef at the Plaza Club (900 Fort Street Mall, 521-8905), a private facility located at the top floor of Pioneer Plaza.

Overseeing the kitchen at Don Ho's Island Grill (Aloha Tower Marketplace, 528-0807) is James dela Cruz, whose culinary philosophy is to keep it simple, but tasty.

It's a case of "like father, like son" for Alfredo and Alfred Cabacungun. Dad Alfredo began his culinary career as a dishwasher at the Wailua Ranch Hotel in 1959. Today, he imparts his knowledge and skills to up-and-coming chefs at Kapiolani Community College.

Following his dad in the kitchen is Alfred Cabacungan, who is the executive sous chef at the Sheraton Waikiki and Royal Hawaiian hotels. (Maybe, he'll succeed his dad at KCC when he retires.)

Also keeping it in the family is Ernesto Limcaco, whose mother once owned a Filipino restaurant in San Francisco.

As a 17-year-old immigrant from the Philippines, Limcaco has climbed the restaurant ladder, from owning his own establishment (Taipan on the Boulevard) to holding his current position as corporate executive chef at Y. Hata & Co.

"I think her (Comerford's) appointment to such a high-profile position is a tribute to all Filipinos who work in the restaurant industry, and there a lot of us," said Limcaco, who last week served military generals an amuse bouche (teaser) of kare kare, the Filipino version of oxtail stew flavored with peanut butter. "I think Filipino cuisine is a sleeper, which means it has yet to be discovered."

So can the first family expect to dine on adobo a la Bayonnaise (a French recipe prepared with garlic and vinegar) or lumpia with bits of foie gras? Maybe, it IS possible with a Filipina chef.