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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, December 7, 2005

TASTE
Cracked up to be healthy

By Cathy Thomas
Orange County (Calif.) Register

SANTA ANA, Calif. — The racket made me sit up in bed. Every September, my childhood sleep would be interrupted by ripening walnuts hitting our wood-shingled roof. It sounded like bowling balls, as heavy nuts hit shingles, the startling sound diminishing as they rolled to the grass from the slanted surface.

When walnuts fall from a tree, most often a fleshy green hull still surrounds the shell.

Bigger than a golf ball, the apple-green hull is sturdy and heavy. It's a shell protecting a shell, forming two layers around the meaty inside.

Often the hull would split from the interior shell on impact with the roof or ground.

After a fitful night, I'd seek revenge in the morning, stomping the orbs to expose the milky-white nuts inside. Under-ripe, they were juicy and had an acidic "green" taste. At first I ate them just to get even. But as I grew older, I ate them because I loved the bold taste. Years later in culinary school, I learned that immature green walnuts are cherished in Europe, used in everything from spreads to ice cream.

My parents built our home in the middle of a one-acre walnut orchard in rural Van Nuys, the heart of the San Fernando Valley. In 1947, a fast-talking real-estate salesman promised them large annual revenue from the walnuts. Enough profit, he promised, to easily pay the taxes.

But hungry squirrels and pests of every description stood in the way of bumper crops. As it turned out, the rewards weren't cash but loads of walnut-enriched treats from my mother's kitchen. My brothers and I gobbled up mountains of warm oatmeal-walnut cookies; playmates, relatives and neighbors ate the leftovers.

Walnuts appeared in salads, on fresh vegetables and baked apples, occasionally on French toast, and in pies and hot cereal.

Dad and I would spend autumn weekends collecting nuts and spreading them on outdoor tables to dry in the valley's blazing sun. Once the nuts dried, the meat inside would be covered in mahogany skin. It tasted sharply nutty and had a crunchy texture. We'd crack the shells with small hammers, then dig out the stubborn meat trapped inside.

Little did I know that I was eating something that would someday be labeled a "superfood" because of its health benefits.

Recently, I spoke with Dr. Steven Pratt, author of "Superfoods Rx: Fourteen Foods That Will Change Your Life" (William Morrow, $24.95). Pratt, an ophthalmologist who specializes in ocular plastic surgery at Scripps Memorial Hospital in La Jolla, says walnuts are superstars.

"When incorporated into a healthy diet and lifestyle, walnuts can play a role in preventing age-related macular degeneration, a leading cause of blindness," he said. "They can also help prevent cataracts, type-2 diabetes, Alzheimer's and some forms of skin cancer.

"And they can lower C-reactive proteins, which are markers for inflammation in the body, the root cause of many chronic diseases. Basically ... (eating walnuts is) like taking an anti-inflammatory pill."

He added that walnuts are an excellent source of heart-healthy, plant-based omega-3 fatty acids, the good fat often credited with improving cholesterol. Pratt says he eats a handful of unsalted walnuts every day, scooping them from a container in his refrigerator and placing them in a small plastic bag so he can take them with him to nibble throughout the day.

"That way I can control the amount I'm eating. I leave the mother lode behind. Walnuts are high in fiber and very filling," he said.

If you don't like the taste of raw walnuts, place them on a rimmed baking sheet and toast them in a 350-degree oven for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned (watch carefully, because nuts burn easily). Toasting them rounds out their flavor and reduces acidity.

Here are 10 luscious ways to enjoy them:

  • Nutty winter squash: Cut 2 medium butternut squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out seeds and stringy membranes, and discard those. Place squash, cut side down, on rimmed baking sheet and add 1/4 inch warm water. Bake in 375-degree oven until flesh is fork-tender, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, scoop flesh from skin with large spoon and place in bowl. Mash with 2 tablespoons butter, 1/4 cup plain yogurt, plus salt and pepper to taste. Top with 3/4 cup toasted walnuts.

  • Walnuts a la baby greens and melon: Walnuts add an interesting edge to green salads, especially those that contain sweet fruit and a tangy cheese, like the one pictured above. Place a handful of mixed baby greens on salad plates. Top with sliced ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon. Sprinkle each slice with crumbled feta or blue cheese and toasted chopped walnuts, then drizzle on a little vinaigrette, just enough to barely coat the greens (to make vinaigrette, combine 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil with 3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar and garlic salt to taste). If desired, garnish with minced fresh basil.

  • Nuthouse pesto: A dollop of this tasty pesto is delicious on creamy soups, or add a little olive oil to the mixture and toss with cooked vegetables or warm pasta. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process 1 cup of toasted walnut pieces until finely ground. Add 2 cups cilantro leaves, 1 jalapeno pepper (seeded, minced — use caution when working with fresh chilies, do not touch face or eyes); process until cilantro is chopped. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 cup water; process until smooth, adding more water if needed. Taste and add salt if needed. (Adapted from "The Healthy Kitchen" by Andrew Weil and Rosie Daley, Knopf, $16.95)

  • Candied dandies: Yes, you can now buy candied walnuts at many supermarkets. But I love to make this peppery version. Start by placing a baking sheet next to the stove. In small bowl, combine 1/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper; stir to combine. Heat a wok or medium-size heavy-bottomed deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add 1 cup walnut halves (or large pieces). Heat nuts, stirring constantly. Add half of sugar mixture and stir vigorously until sugar dissolves. Add remaining sugar mixture and stir until sugar dissolves. Immediately dump nuts on a flat surface such as a baking sheet. When cool enough to handle, separate nuts.

  • Gorgonzola bruschetta with green apples and walnuts: This appetizer showcases the classic pairing of tangy cheese and walnuts. Slice rustic bread such as ciabatta or batard (like a baguette but with much bigger in circumference) into 1/2-inch slices. Lightly brush one side of each slice with a mixture of olive oil and melted butter. Place, oiled side up, in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and broil until lightly browned, about 8 inches from broiler element. Remove from oven and turn bread. In food processor, whirl 6 ounces gorgonzola with 2 ounces cream cheese until smooth. Spread on bread and return to broiler. Broil until crust is toasted. Top with candied walnuts. Serve warm, accompanied by thin slices of Granny Smith apples.

  • Rice with crunch: Cook 3/4 cup brown or white long-grained rice according to package directions. Fluff rice with fork. Add 1/4 cup toasted chopped walnuts, 1/4 cup fresh dill (chopped), 1/4 cup golden raisins, 1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar and 1/2 tablespoon olive oil. Toss and add salt and pepper to taste. (Adapted from Gourmet magazine.)

  • Big bowl dessert: Perhaps the easiest finale to dinner is to provide a big bowl of unshelled walnuts and a big bowl of apples and/or pears. This is a dessert that keeps folks at the table to chat and unwind, cracking nuts and carving fruit. Everyone gets a nutcracker, a plate, and a fruit knife and fork. For a more decadent approach, include a big wedge of cheese, such as white cheddar, as well.

  • Van Nuys chicken salad: Add toasted chopped walnuts to chicken salad, tuna salad or egg salad. Chopped toasted walnuts are also delicious on crabcakes or tuna melts.

  • Sue's Best Oatmeal Cookies: The recipe (at right) for these chewy cookies won a prize at the Orange County Fair. In honor of my mother, I increased the amount of walnuts from 1 cup to 1 1/2 cups. Either way, these cookies are winners.

  • Fudgy brownies blessed with walnuts: Rich, chocolate-laden brownies are a scrumptious way to use walnuts. This recipe has a great fudge-like consistency. Of course, if you're in a hurry, you can supplement a store-bought brownie mix with loads of toasted walnuts.

    Now here's that cookie recipe:

    Cook's note: Do not substitute margarine for butter or instant for old-fashioned oatmeal. In my oven, I found that the cookies baked better at 350 degrees than at 325.

    SUE'S BEST OATMEAL COOKIES

    8 ounces (2 sticks) room-temperature butter, plus butter for greasing pans if not using parchment

    1 cup sugar

    1/3 cup dark molasses

    1 egg

    1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

    1 teaspoon baking soda

    1/2 teaspoon salt

    2 1/2 cups old-fashioned oatmeal

    1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

    1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

    1 tablespoon vanilla

    1 1/2 cups dried cranberries

    1 1/2 cups walnuts, coarsely chopped

    Preheat oven to 325 degrees (see note that precedes the recipe). Line cookie sheets with parchment paper or lightly grease with butter.

    Cream butter and sugar together in large bowl of electric mixer until well combined, and smooth using paddle attachment. Add molasses and egg; beat until smooth.

    In separate bowl, combine flour, soda and salt; stir with whisk until combined. Add oatmeal, nutmeg and cinnamon; stir with large spoon or large rubber spatula to combine.

    Add dry ingredients to butter mixture; mix on medium speed until well combined, scraping down sides as needed.

    Add vanilla and mix until well-combined. Stir in cranberries and walnuts.

    Drop dough by heaping tablespoonfuls onto prepared sheets, leaving 2-inch spaces between lumps.

    Bake 6-8 minutes. Open oven and press cookies with back of spoon, if needed, to slightly flatten. Bake 4-7 more minutes.

    Let the cookies rest on the sheet for 5 minutes. Transfer to cooling rack and cool completely. Cookies will harden as they cool.

    Makes 2 dozen.

  • Per serving (1 cookie): Calories 325 (61 percent from fat), fat 22 g, protein 3.2 g, carbohydrates 27.7 g, fiber 1.2 g, sodium 312 mg, calcium 23 mg

    And those brownies.

    Cook's notes: To toast nuts, place in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Toast in a 350degree oven for about 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Watch nuts carefully because they burn easily.

    Store cooled brownies in an airtight container for up to four days.

    RICH WALNUT FUDGE BROWNIES

    3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped

    1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

    1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

    1 cup granulated sugar

    2/3 cup all-purpose flour

    1/2 teaspoon baking powder

    2 large eggs

    1 teaspoon vanilla extract

    1 1/2 cups toasted chopped walnuts (see cook's notes)

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 8-inch square baking pan. Invert pan and shake out excess flour.

    Melt chocolate with butter and both sugars in top of double boiler set over barely simmering (not boiling) water, stirring until smooth. Or microwave in a bowl, uncovered, on medium power for 2 to 4 minutes, stirring once, until chocolate is shiny; remove from microwave and stir until smooth and melted. Do not get mixture too hot in microwave; essentially you are heating it, then stirring the mixture to melt the chocolate.

    Transfer to large bowl and cool to lukewarm.

    In small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. Set aside.

    Add the eggs and vanilla to the cooled chocolate mixture and stir until blended. Stir in flour mixture until just combined. Stir in walnuts.

    Scrape batter into prepared pan and spread evenly.

    5. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes (or until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean). Cool completely on wire rack. Cut into squares.

    Makes 16 squares.

  • Per serving: Calories 375 (62 percent from fat), fat 25.4 g, protein 7.7 g, carbohydrates 34.8 g, fiber 1.2 g, sodium 510 mg, calcium 23 mg

    Source: "The Best of Chocolate" by Mary Goodbody and Brooke Dojny (Collins, out of print)