This is a typical reaction from first-time visitors to owner Sergio Mitrotti's so-called "chapel."

Truth be told, though, even for frequent visitors — like G.B. and me — the eye-catching Michelangelo frescoes that adorn the ceiling and interior walls still stir a sense of wonder. And part of the reason is knowing that it was single-handedly painted by chef/artist Mitrotti, a renaissance-type man by all standards.

Despite being in business for more than 15 years, Cafe Sistina still remains relatively unknown among kamaaina.

Last week, for example, I recommended this South King Street eatery to a co-worker whose puzzled look spoke volumes. Was this a new restaurant? she asked. Absolutely not.

It's not just art, though, that keeps G.B. and me returning to Cafe Sistina. The restaurant offers some of the most authentic Italian dishes found on this Island.

So if you're expecting to find spaghetti and meatballs on the menu here, fuggedaboutit.

As we always do when we dine here, we start with the affettati misti ($12), which is enough for at least two people. The platter is covered with thin slices of prosciutto di Parma (seasoned and salt-cured ham from the Parma region, which is internationally known for this product), soppressata Veneta (air-dried salami made from cured-dry pork and flavored with black peppercorns) and smoked imported mozzarella.

Using our fingers — yes, it's OK to do so with this dish, besides we couldn't wait to dig in — we layered a slice each of the prosciutto and soppressata then wrapped it with the smoky mozzarella. This is better than any cold-cut sandwich, and it doesn't have the carbs.

Patrons could easily make a meal out of a series of appetizers here and, in the past, G.B. and I have.

The Caprese de melanzane ($8.75) is a classic Italian staple, consisting of marinated inch-thick slices of eggplant separated by wedges of fresh mozzarella. Simple but satisfying.

If you want to carbo load, try the bruschetta Pomodoro ($5.25), grilled bread garnished with garlic, diced tomatoes, basil and virgin olive oil; the funghi con polenta ($6.75), a block of cornmeal mush that's covered with crimini and porcini mushrooms and doused with a tart gorgonzola sauce; or the bruschetta alle vongole ($5.75), topped with chopped pieces of of clam and a wine-garlic sauce.

During last weekend's visit, G.B. and I shared the insalata contadina ($8.75), a "farmer's" salad that's made with mixed greens, grilled eggplant, feta cheese and cubes of firm frittata (an Italian-style omelet). A drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette ties all the flavors together.

When he's not painting, Mitrotti prepares sizzling dishes in the kitchen.

While two thirds of the menu was inspired by his nonna's (grandmother's) and mama's generations, Mitrotti has added his own "cutting edge" recipes, including a vegetarian dish of gnocchi al gorgonzola ($14.50), jellybean-sized potato dumplings coated with a rich gorgonzola sauce and dressed with asparagus spears and fresh tomatoes.

Also on the vegetarian side is the mushroom ravioli ($16.25), plump ravioli stuffed with porcini mushrooms hidden beneath a blanket of melted mozzarella cheese.

Meatier offerings include fettuccine Bolognese ($12.75), venison ragu served over a bed of pappardelle ($17.50) and, a personal favorite, the veal piccata ($16.75), consisting of a thinly sliced piece of veal that's sauteed in butter and capers then finished with a lemon-wine sauce.