Embroidery, beading, applique and Chinese frogs speak to the ubiquitous presence of embellishment on all things this spring. Bold, bright prints zing on silk dupioni in a plethora of abbreviated cheong sam. Jackets, dresses and T-shirts are shortened and shrunken, in keeping with current trends.

Shanghai was, perhaps, at its height during the 1920s and '30s. The designers at Shanghai Tang were clearly inspired by the period, creating black boatneck dresses with hot pink flapper-like fringe that floats from the high thigh to above the knee. A red print silk halter dress had black fringe circling the body on the bias from neck to hem.

Chinese opera references were also evident in the accessories. A leather and canvas "cloud basket bag" took its motif from the scalloped collars and plackets of the Ming-style Peking Opera costumes.

A cleverly designed camisole in cotton Spandex with embroidered mesh panels took its cues from the armor of the wu dan, female military opera characters.

The men's Shanghai Tang story continues to be based on layering. Bright turquoise shirts with mini-Mandarin collars are worn under black silk Mao-inspired jackets with a shock of neon-bright silk lining.