THE INSIDE SCOOP
Simple dishes add up to great pleasures

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Multi-talented chef and owner Sergio Mitrotti welcomes Island residents to his Sistine-like "chapel." Photo by Randy T. Fujimori Cafe Sistina Where: 1314 S. King St. Call: 596-0061 Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday from 11a.m. to 2 p.m.; and dinner Sunday and Monday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., and until 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday Parking: Entrance off King St. or Young St.

(Besides, leftover linguine or fettuccine is one of G.B.'s favorite breakfasts — paired, of course, with milk and not a glass of red wine.)

Always marveled by the restaurant's grandiose Michelangelo murals, G.B. and I could easily make a habit of eating at Sistina, but only if we could stick to the list of appetizers.

Enough for two, the affettati misti ($12) represents simple, Italian countryside comfort food, featuring thin slices of prosciutto di Parma (cured ham), soppressata Veneta (a type of salami) and smoked imported mozzarella. This is one of those times when I'll forsake the cutlery and dig in with my fingers to wrap the cheese around a slice each of the meats. Lish!

Fork and knife, however, were much needed with the oven-roasted eggplant ($7.75), which was almost the same size as a halved pineapple. Never having tried this appetizer in the past, G.B. and I were immediately impressed — not only by its substantial size — but with the toppings, as well. Bits of roasted garlic, diced tomatoes, basil and marinated feta cheese all tastefully complement the meaty eggplant.

(Guests wanting to try a classic melanzane appetizer may want to opt for the alla Caprese ($8.75), made with marinated eggplant wedges that cozy up to thick slices of fresh buffalo mozzarella. It's surely just as good as the oven-roasted eggplant.)

As should be expected at any bona fide Italian restaurant, the bread here is crusty on the outside but soft in the middle. And, when dipped into a mixture of olive oil and balsamic vinegar then topped with parmesan cheese, I'm always reminded that the simplest of food is often some of the best. This rang true when I later used the pesto-infused butter to cover another slice of bread.

OK, we should have stopped right here. But no, we forgot to ask Dario, Sistina's manager, to remove the menus after we ordered our appetizers. Big mistake.

Naturally, then, we had to order an entree. G.B. selected the linguine al pesto ($12), which was simple, clean and not overly oily.

I, on the other hand, was craving a good authentic meat sauce, so I ordered the spinach fettuccine Bolognese ($12). Again, simplicity reigns supreme, which is true for this hearty homemade sauce that's made by slowly simmering fresh tomatoes, herbs and various meats.

As anticipated, we had leftovers. And, as usual, G.B. had hers the next day ... yes, for breakfast, along with a tall glass of milk.