Fire crews were called to the scene from many parts of the island as flames, pushed by strong trade winds, shot up 40 and 50 feet in the air.

Firefighters appeared to have brought the fire under control on the Pu'unene Avenue side the the shopping center, but then the fire hopped over the mall's center court at about 6:30 p.m. and new flames leaped into the night on the Lono Avenue side.

The spectacle snarled traffic in the heart of Maui's largest city, and scores of spectators lined the streets surrounding the mall.

Few people were at the center when the fire started, and the fire's origin was not known. It was uncertain whether anyone was hurt.

On the street, many were lamenting the loss of Ah Fook's, a grocery store started in 1917 by a Chinese immigrant cook. The store was moved to the Kahului Shopping Center in 1955.

"I'm definitely going to miss it," said Bob Borawski of Wailuku, who bought a pack of cigarettes at Ah Fook's at about 2 p.m. yesterday.

As the blaze continued to smolder, Salvation Army officials were figuring their 4,000-square-foot store was a total loss. That includes two trucks, about $45,000 in inventory, 30 days' worth of emergency food pantry stocks, thousands of leftover Toys for Tots toys and more than 50 kettles used for collection donations at Christmas.

The store, which was closed Sunday, is one of three Salvation Army thrift stores on Maui.

"Maui is a giving community," said Capt. Thomas Taylor, Maui County administrator for the Salvation Army. "I have no doubt we'll be inundated with people wanting to help us out. The challenge is finding a space to set up again."

Taylor should know. Almost five years ago, a fire destroyed the Kahului thrift store in a former youth center three days before it was scheduled to move into the Kahului Shopping Center.

Kahului Shopping Center is the oldest of three shopping centers that line Ka'ahumanu Avenue in Kahului. It was built by A&B predecessor Kahului Development Co. in 1951.

Nowadays the center's old monkeypod trees shade a regular group of old-timers who talk story on the benches and tables of the central courtyard. There are about 25 tenants, including Del's Farm Supply, Ichiban Restaurant and Sushi, Thelma's Haircutter and Maui Home Furnishing Imports.