Combine the flour, salt, baking powder and sugar in a bowl; stir to mix.

In another bowl, beat the eggs well and stir in milk. Combine with flour mixture and stir to barely blend. Add melted shortening and butter; stir until blended.

Pour about one-half cup batter into a very hot waffle iron (exact amount depends on your iron, but one-half cup is a good ballpark estimate of the amount generally used per waffle). Bake the waffles until they are golden and crisp. Serve immediately.

Makes about eight waffles.

• Per serving: 300 calories, 18 g total fat, 8 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, 700 sodium, 30 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 6 g protein.

For the chocolate waffles below, you beat the butter with sugar, rather than melting it. The resulting batter is thick but spreads considerably after you lower the lid of the waffle iron, so compensate by not filling the grid all the way.

Serve these with vanilla ice cream and chocolate or caramel sauce. Or with fruit toppings, including sauteed bananas.

CHOCOLATE (BROWNIE) WAFFLES

• 2 ounces (squares) unsweetened chocolate
• 2 cups all-purpose cake flour
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup milk

Melt chocolate in a container set over hot water or on medium power in the microwave until just melted. Set aside.

Combine flour, cream of tartar, soda and salt in a bowl; stir to combine. In another bowl, beat butter until fluffy. Add sugar and continue beating. Add eggs one at a time. Stir in chocolate. Add half the flour mixture and blend. Stir in the milk, then the remaining flour mixture.

Makes about six waffles.

• Per serving: 500 calories, 23 g total fat, 14 g saturated fat, 115 mg cholesterol, 330 sodium, 69 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 35 g sugar, 8 g protein.

This is a variation on classic waffles and has an appealing, yeasty flavor. If you are making the waffle for dinner, you can mix the batter in the morning and refrigerate all day.

OVERNIGHT WAFFLES

• 1 package (2 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup warm water
• 1/2 cup butter
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 2 cups flour
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 eggs

In a large bowl combine yeast and water. Stir to dissolve. Let stand five minutes. Melt butter and allow it to cool.

Add buttermilk, flour, sugar, salt and cooled butter to yeast. Beat eggs and add them. Stir gently to blend well. Cover and allow the batter to rest all day (or overnight) in the refrigerator. Cook on hot waffle iron.

Makes about eight waffles.

• Per serving: 270 calories, 14 g total fat, 8 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 330 sodium, 29 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 8 g protein.

Serve conventionally for breakfast, with savory toppings for dinner or with fruit toppings (sauteed bananas or pineapple) for dessert.

Pumpkin or sweet potatoes waffles are not ultra-sweet so can be served with sweet toppings without being too cloying.

Double the recipe to use a whole can of pumpkin puree, or substitute mashed (but unsweetened) sweet potato. Substitute 1 and one-half teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice for the spices, if desired.

PUMPKIN (OR SWEET POTATO) WAFFLES

• 1/3 cup butter
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 2 tablespoons white or brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 cup pumpkin (or sweet potato) puree
• 3 eggs, separated
• 1 cup milk

Melt the butter and set it aside to cool.

In a bowl, combine flour, baking powder, white or brown sugar, salt and dried spices. Stir to blend.

In another bowl, beat the egg yolks with the pumpkin puree. Add milk and cooled butter and stir to blend. Pour into flour mixture and stir briefly to moisten.

In a small bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold them into the batter. Scoop onto hot waffle iron and bake.

Makes about eight waffles.

• Per serving: 220 calories, 11 g total fat, 6 g saturated fat, 105 mg cholesterol, 510 sodium, 25 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 6 g protein.

Serve for breakfast with maple syrup, pumpkin or apple butter, fried apples or hot applesauce and sour cream. Serve for dessert with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce.

This old recipe is great comfort food on a chilly night. If you'd like to reduce the work involved, make only the cream sauce and add leftover cooked chicken.

CREAMED CHICKEN

• 1 large onion
• 3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
• 1 red pepper, cut into thin strips
• 1/2 pound sliced mushrooms, optional
• 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped

For the cream sauce:

• 1/2 cup butter
• 1/2 cup flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon pepper
• 3 cups reduced-sodium canned chicken broth
• 1 cup milk
• 1 tablespoon sherry, optional
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 5 to 6 cups chopped, cooked chicken (or turkey), about 1 and one-fourth pounds, the approximate yield from one cooked chicken

Chop the onion in fine dice. Heat oil in a wide skillet over medium heat and add onion. Slice the red pepper in thin strips. Cut the strips in half to make shorter strips. Add them to the pan along with mushrooms (if using) and rosemary. Allow the mixture to cook, stirring occasionally, until all the vegetables are quite reduced in size.

In a medium pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add flour, salt and pepper. Stir to blend. Gradually add chicken broth, stirring constantly to prevent lumping. The mixture will seize up initially but will loosen as you continue to add broth and stir. Add milk all at once, then sherry (if using), cream and vegetable mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring often. Add chicken and heat through.

Serves eight.

Serve over waffles — or toast or toasted English muffins.