THE NIGHT STUFF
Vino good for seasoned wine lovers, newbies

By Derek Paiva
Advertiser Entertainment Writer

Vino staffer Chandra Lam discusses the menu with Martin Nakasone of 'Aiea. In addition to a wide range of wines, the establishment offers excellent appetizers. Photos by Rebecca Breyer • The Honolulu Advertiser

Diana Park, left, and Tracy Rasmussen chat at Vino over wine and tapas.

Vino At Restaurant Row Open 4:30-9:30 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 4:30-11 p.m. Fridays, 6:30-11 p.m. Saturdays 524-8466

The first was the casually-suited twentysomething junior wine expert who regaled his quintet of equally well-dressed friends with stories of his travels through the Northern California vineyards and expertise in navigating a wine menu. Vino's menu, he insisted, was one he knew inside and out.

On the table nearby was a thirtysomething couple listening intently as their server answered every question asked about which white went best with shrimp and what red matched best with a veal osso-buco appetizer. In the end, they went for a series of two-ounce wine samplings rather than the bottle they initially figured on ordering.

That Vino could satisfy both types of wine lovers said something about the unique environment created by master sommelier Chuck Furuya and chef D.K. Kodama. It's a good place for going out for an evening of wine and appetizers in an elegant setting, and it's not just for wine snobs but folks with a learner's permit, too.

Inspired by the design and ambiance of a casual enoteca (wine bar) one might find on a roadtrip through the Italian countryside, Vino's interiors, tapas ("small plate") menu and wine list are all about smart, sophisticated fun for the "just-got-paid" pau-hana crowd.

I liked Vino's intimate, spot-lit dining area — surrounded on nearly all sides by exaggerated trompe l'oeil (French for "fool the eye") murals mimicking a patio-view of hilly vineyards, a kitchen and wine casks under a blue sky of fluffy clouds. A soundtrack of piped-in Coldplay, Italian ballads, jazz standards and light opera offered pleasant sonics. And two full menu pages of bottled offerings (Vino didn't get its name on a whim) were complemented by a page each of wines by-the-glass in five- or two-ounce sizes, and tempting appetizers.

A couple of wine flights personally selected by Furuya for Vino intrigued me.

Our server insisted Furuya's "Trio of Real Italy" flight of whites ($8.95 for three two-ounce glasses) would match well with any appetizer we ordered. The flight actually worked best with our order of Vino Caprese ($7.50) — crisp and warm bufala mozzarella and heirloom tomato pieces topped with a tangy balsamic herb vinaigrette and fresh basil.

Our remaining appetizers paired well with Furuya's "Wild, Rustic Italian Country Wine" flight of reds ($10.50 for three 2 oz. glasses). Vino's House Made Ravioli ($6.50) — six ravioli stuffed with fresh, sweet fennel sausage, spinach and ricotta cheese ladled with slow-cooked marinara sauce — was a natural for it.

An order of seared foie gras, generously drizzled in sweet port wine reduction ($16.95) and Vino's Asparagus Milanese ($6.95) — fresh quail eggs fried sunny side up and placed on baby asparagus spears and mini toasts topped with bread crumbs and a decadent drizzle of fragrant truffle oil — also matched best with the reds.

Vino's appetizers were priced between $4.95 and $16.95; and with the "tapas" theme, portions were small. But four shared appetizers, wines and dessert easily sated my partner in Night Stuff and me.

Vino wasn't busy on the Saturday night we stopped by — a few tables of casual and dressy klatches of friends, and a handful of couples quietly enjoying a night out. But you'll find Thursday and Friday pau-hana hours usually attract a mixed-age collection of chatty onephiles angling for spots at Vino's wine bar.

My advice? Dress up a bit. Invite some friends. And bring all the Wine 101 questions you have.

Reach Derek Paiva at 525-8005 or dpaiva@honoluluadvertiser.com.

NIGHTSPOTTING ...

SISTER SOLO

DJ Marloca offers up the first of a planned series of Sisters In Sound solo parties with TAG at thirtyninehotel tonight. There'll be live art, body movin' and emceeing, but the party's big draw is tag-team DJ sets by Marloca, Lady J, K-ing, Ris-up and Juando pulling deep from their record collections. From 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.; $5 entry. 21 and older.

KASKADE AT SPEAKEASY

San Francisco-based DJ/producer Kaskade returns to Honolulu for a midnight to 3 a.m. turn at the tables, Saturday, at The Living Room's Speakeasy weekly. The OM Records house music master will be the first of several out-of-town turntablists/artists Speakeasy promoters plan to bring to town this year. Opening at 10 p.m. are DJs Reid & Eugene; Miklos closes post-Kaskade. 21 and older.

GOODBYE IRISH ROSE

The Irish Rose Saloon, a longtime Lewers Street institution for great live music, closes its doors Saturday night with what owner Bill Commerford is calling "an old Irish wake." The wrecking ball will be on its way later in the month to clear the way for a huge Outrigger redevelopment project, but Commerford said, "The whiskey will be flowing on Saturday. We want everyone who ever played here to come by one last time to join the bands." Playing the final Saturday at 227 Lewers St. are Even Steven from 7 to 10 p.m., and Irish Rose stalwarts The Piranha Brothers until closing. Another Irish Rose will open soon.