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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Check label to know what's what

 •  Gotta eat grains, especially whole ones

By Renee Schettler
Washington Post

Adjusting to whole grains takes place just as much in your mind as in your kitchen. The trick is to rethink your expectations. Most whole grains have a pleasant nuttiness. But none of them is going to taste like Wonder bread. Here's a general guide:

Packaged products

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A true whole-grain products is labeled; the word "whole" should precede the name of the grain, and it should be the primary ingredient (listed first). Triscuits are whole-grain, Wheat Thins are not. Cheerios are whole-grain, corn flakes are not.

Whole-grain versions of bread, buns and pitas, crackers, pancake mixes, frozen waffles, pasta and couscous also are available. Treat them as you normally would and serve with pasta sauce, or butter and maple syrup, but expect a difference. Whole-wheat pasta has a hearty, earthy flavor, while brown rice pasta has a lighter, nuttier flavor similar to that of traditional pasta.

Many cereals (including Cheerios, Grape-Nuts, Shredded Wheat and granola) found in supermarkets meet the standards for whole grains. In addition, health-food stores carry several cereals loaded with whole grains, ranging from flakes made from quinoa, amaranth and millet to puffed brown rice kernels that look and taste surprisingly like Rice Krispies minus the sugar. Try mixing whole-grain cereals half and half with familiar ones as you switch over.

Most health-food stores now carry packaged hot breakfast cereals made from brown rice that are similar in flavor and texture to Cream of Wheat.

Raw grains

If you know how to cook regular rice or couscous, then you know how to cook raw whole grains such as barley, brown rice, buckwheat, bulgur, millet and quinoa. Each is simmered in water until the grain is tender and the water is absorbed, typically about 20 minutes. For additional flavor, use broth instead of water.

Some tips on choosing and selecting grains:

  • Pearl barley can be simmered in mushroom or beef soups and used instead of rice in risotto (though with slightly less creamy results). Chewy in a good way.
  • Brown rice comes in several varieties, from short-grain to basmati, and must be cooked longer than white. Makes terrific fried rice.
  • Buckwheat groats, known as kasha when roasted, are hearty, earthy-flavored and commonly used as a hot breakfast cereal.
  • Bulgur is steamed, dried and cracked wheat; it requires rehydrating in hot water, not cooking.
  • Millet is similar to couscous in appearance but with a mild corn flavor. Best if toasted in a dry skillet just until aromatic prior to cooking.
  • Quinoa (KEEN-wah) is mildly nutty in flavor with a tender texture. Exceptionally high in protein. The kernels are coated with a bitter, resinous substance that must be rinsed off in several changes of water before cooking. A pale curlicue appears on the germ of each grain when heated.

Once cooked, these grains can be added to soups or topped with nuts, fresh herbs, citrus zest or tossed with vegetables in a vinaigrette. Several grains that are cooked in water — including brown rice, buckwheat and quinoa — can be used instead of oatmeal as a hot cereal for a quick, hearty breakfast.

Top whole-grain cereals the same way as oatmeal — with bananas and maple syrup or brown sugar and cinnamon — for children accustomed to Quaker Instant. To please adults, try maple syrup and dates, dried cherries and pumpkin seeds, or a pinch each of ground cardamom and cinnamon.