So when Manoa resident Folly Hofer told me she had dinner there two weeks ago with friends, I asked her if we were talking about the same place.

Apparently so. A couple of phone calls later, I found out that Matters of Taste now presents "Bistro Nights," Wednesdays through Saturdays from 5 to 9 p.m.

But don't expect the self-service counter to be there and don't think you're going to get a sandwich or burger here.

Instead, burgundy-aproned staff members attend to your whims, while chef Zach Most creates an impressive array of French- and Mediterranean- inspired dishes.

This type of cuisine makes sense for this area given that Sam Choy's BLC and Zippy's — both located on the opposite side of Nimitz Highway — have a lock on anything that's so-called "local-style" grinds.

Folly recommended I try the "Deviled Eggs" salad ($7.75), which she enjoyed. She also suggested that I order the carpaccio ($10.50), which her two friends raved about throughout the night. (And apparently, they still do, she said.)

As trustworthy, I'm sure, Folly's suggestions were, it was hard to resist the seared Diver scallops ($14), which were swimming in a mustard-colored pool of saffron-and-champagne cream sauce.

The three scallops were propped up against a small mound of vegetable ratatouille that was peppered with white beans — this was trés French. The subtle combination of flavors melded well, with the right amount of saffron to remind the palate that this was a Mediterranean dish.

My next visit here, I'll try the carpaccio appetizer. But then again, the escargots in puff pastry ($9) and spicy ahi tartare ($11) may win me over.

While studying the entrees, I noticed two vegetarian pasta dishes at the top of the list: the linguine folded with fresh capers, tomatoes, garlic, basil and olive oil ($14) and the forest mushroom ravioli ($18), which would be garnished with toasted walnuts and chopped arugula and served with a gorgonzola cream sauce.

Both were tempting, but the seared ahi and the pork roulade sounded too good to pass up. Neither would disappoint.

The seared ahi — don't expect this to be your typical Pacific Rim-style entree — was slightly scorched then sliced in three- to four-inch strips and presented over a tapenade puddle incorporated with kalamata olives and fresh tomatoes. This was simple Mediterranean cuisine at its best. And surprisingly, the side of fluffy mashed potatoes were a good choice as a starch, rather than something heavier like couscous or even basmati rice.

Stuffed with caramelized sweet onions, gorgonzola, toasted walnuts and dates, the pork roulade was perfectly done, both on the inside and outside. And although the cabernet sauce was reduced a tad bit too much, it was forgivable, given the overall flavors and fork-tender texture of the cutlet.

Thanks Folly. And next time,