Hass avocados, the pear-shaped variety with a pebbly skin ranging in color from dark green to almost black, are plentiful this time of year.

Their taste and texture make them special. When they're ripe, their pale yellow-green flesh is creamy smooth and flavorful. How to tell when that is? Color is one clue — the skin turns dark green as the avocado ripens. Softness is another: If the avocado yields to gentle pressure, it's ready to use. Keep firm avocados at room temperature until ripe; placing them in a closed paper bag speeds up the ripening process.

Avocados play a leading role in the following recipe for a gazpacho variation — a cold soup for a summer lunch, appetizer or dinner. Below, the unadorned recipe with variations to follow.

AVOCADO GAZPACHO

3 fully ripened Hass avocados, halved, pitted, peeled and diced

2 cups peeled, seeded and diced cucumbers

3/4 cup chopped fresh tomato

1/2 cup chopped onion

14 1/2-ounce chicken broth

1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Remove 1/2 cup diced avocado for later use. In a blender, place half of the remaining avocado, cucumbers, tomato, onion, broth, lemon juice, salt and pepper; whirl until smooth; place in a bowl; repeat with remaining ingredients.

To serve: Spoon gazpacho into four soup bowls; in the center of each, spoon a small mound of the avocado.

To prepare up to one day ahead, cover surface of soup directly with plastic wrap; refrigerate. Makes 4 servings, about 5 cups.