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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, July 17, 2005

BACKPAGE STORY
Diverse menu lists fine-dining options

Chef Lester Omuro, left, and David Nagaishi present guests with fresh seafood and hearty prime rib.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Ocean House

Where: 2169 Kalia Rd., Outrigger Reef Hotel

Call: 923-2277

Hours: Open nightly from 5 to 10 p.m.

Parking: Valet parking is available for $5 for four hours.

What traffic? Despite the construction work for Outrigger Enterprise's Waikiki Beach Walk project, motorists still have easy access to Ocean House, according to the restaurant's operations manager David Nagaishi.

"They can get to us by turning down Lewers Street or Beach Walk Road," he said. "We're easily accessible."

Located in the Outrigger Reef Hotel, Ocean House boasts beachfront dining in an inviting, hale-like atmosphere.

"When they're not looking at the food, they're looking at that," said manager Jon Groth, fanning his arm across the ocean view. "And every table here has that view."

While the caliber of food and level of service rival those of any fine-dining restaurant, the prices here are relatively reasonable and portions are substantial.

For example, an order of Island sashimi, which costs only $11, is enough for two people. And as printed on the menu, all pupus can be shared, including the coconut lobster skewers ($13) and the fire-roasted spare ribs ($9), which are slathered with a shimmering coat of Maui gold pineapple barbecue sauce.

"We offer the best of both worlds," said chef Lester Omuro. "We've got everything from prime rib to seven different types of Hawaiian fresh fish."

Light in flavor, the garlic ahi steak ($22) is deglazed with sake then served with shiitake mushrooms, sugar snap peas over a bed of aromatic Jasmine rice.

Although moi is starting to get scarcer in supply, this popular Island fish will continue to be an Ocean House mainstay, Nagaishi said.

"Even mahi mahi is getting harder and harder to get," he added. "But we somehow we always manage to secure both these fish for our restaurant."

With a name like Ocean House, it's not surprising that seafood takes up a good portion of the menu.

"People who like fish will love our selection," Omuro said. "There are so many choices, including the crab-stuffed mahi mahi, which is one of our best sellers."

Weighing in with his opinion, Groth said he still likes the seafood lau lau ($23), prepared with a combination of mahi mahi, shrimp and scallops.

Seafood, however, is not the only lure to Ocean House. In addition to the apple-smoked-bacon-wrapped filet mignon ($28) and salt-and-pepper New York steak ($24), the prime rib here is one of the best on the Island.

Slow-roasted in an electric imu, the Hawaiian-salt-crusted prime rib comes in four sizes: a lite cut ($22), an "Ocean House" cut ($26), a hefty "Alii" cut ($32) — expect to take some home for the the next day's dinner — and a keiki cut ($12).

"We're starting to attract more and more locals," Nagaishi said. "We're changing the local mind set that Waikiki is a hassle to get into. I guess the secret's out that we're here."