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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, July 31, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
Comparative shopping leads to tasty deals

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Adela and Richard Chan offer hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner meals at I Love Country Cafe in Kahala.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

My mom always told me never to shop on an empty stomach. These are words, my dad says, he still lives by every time "mommy" drags him to the malls.

And it's advice that I found myself following — a grumbling stomach led the way — while waiting for the doors to open at Macy's last Saturday morning.

As I ambled the perimeter of Kahala Mall, I couldn't help but stop and watch the chefs at Ginza Kimuraya Tokyo (735-9600) mix, knead and twist their dough. I could almost smell the flour and unbaked pastries, even if there was a thick pane of glass that separated me from them.

Inside, the scene was buzzing, with most tables occupied. A group of golfers were ramped up on coffee and in a hurry to make their tee time. Meanwhile, a family of four shared a stack of pancakes ($4.50), in addition to their individual plates of eggs and bacon ($5.50).

Prices here are competitive. A ham-and-cheese omelet, for example, goes for $5.75, which includes a choice of two small pancakes, rice or toast.

At $6.50, the "Kimuraya French Toast" is the most expensive breakfast item on the menu, and includes two eggs and a choice of breakfast meat.

I should have stopped here, but my consumer instincts kicked in and I decided to do some comparative shopping.

As I turned the corner, a cafe-like scene was playing out on the sidewalk fronting I Love Country Cafe and The Patisserie.

At both places, all of the outdoor seats were occupied and most of the tables inside were taken, as well.

At I Love Country Cafe (735-6965) lines two deep formed at the counter, while a bank of sleepy-eyed customers waited for their orders.

Those already seated were well on their way to grinding their way through mounds of local-style fried rice ($5.79), made with ham, Portuguese sausage, peas and carrots, and topped with two eggs any style; and a "skillet" breakfast ($5.99), consisting of three scrambled eggs mixed with bacon, ham and onions, then topped with cheddar cheese and green onions. A side of country-style potatoes and toast are also included.

I was thinking of my mom when I saw the pork adobo omelet ($5.59) and wondered why she never made this dish when I lived at home. I was tempted, but vinegared pork at that time of the morning was little too much for my appetite. (I guess my mom knew this.)

I thought of getting the eggs Benedict — $3.99 for a half portion and $5.99 for a full — but I couldn't until I saw what was available next door at The Patisserie (735-4402).

Breakfast service here starts at 7 a.m., which suits the needs of senior diners, many of whom appeared to belong to a Patisserie breakfast club, of sorts.

The display case is replete with freshly baked goodies, from danishes and croissants to cakes and pies to the popular popover (85 cents), which is a muffin-sized bread with a crisp brown crust and a hollow, moist interior. Perfect for a light breakfast, but not enough to build the necessary energy and stamina needed to scour the racks at Macy's.

The two-egg, smoked-salmon omelet ($4.95) sounded good, but I would have to supplement it with eierpfannkuchen, a German-style thin pancake that can be topped with fruit filling or the house-special, orange-maple syrup. Cost for one is $2.45 and $3.75 for two.

Still undecided, I thought of going back to Ginza Kimuraya Tokyo for its "Kimuraya French Toast." And then again, as time went on that pork adobo omelet was starting to sound better and better. But so did the popover and salmon omelet at The Patisserie.

In the end, though, the doors at Macy's finally opened and I still hadn't eaten. And the sales racks were now calling.

Who listens to their mothers these days anyway? Sorry, mom.