As Royal to Royal, a quarter horse owned by Francis Lau, warmed up at the stables, we sat and talked with Keahi Allen in the shadows of the Ko'olau. Allen, retired arts program specialist for the King Kamehameha Celebration Commission, has studied the tradition of pa'u riding for many years. She explained that the word pa'u means "skirt." While it can mean any kind of skirt, including the skirt worn by hula dancers, for the purpose of this story the term will be used to describe the elegant garments worn by women who ride horseback in parades.

Allen explained that the pa'u skirt and cape originated in the 1800s as a dust cover to protect ladies' holoku from the dirt and dust as they rode on horseback. Since the women were taught to ride by the paniolo, they did not ride sidesaddle, as was the general custom for women of those times. Rather, they rode astride, pulling their holoku up between their legs and placing the dust cover over their laps.

While cotton calico was the fabric used in the 1800s, today pa'u riders prefer velvet, lace or satin, which have a graceful drape and catch the light as they ride by in the parade.

While the costume looks quite complicated, it consists simply of yards of fabric fastened by twisting six kukui nuts at strategic spots to anchor it.

Fabric yardage varies depending on the tradition of the particular group. For example, the Kamehameha parade pa'u riders use 12 yards of fabric, while the Aloha Festival Parade riders employ nine yards.

For the Kamehameha parade, the fabric is cut into three equal parts, Allen explained. These sections are reassembled, sewn together and a waistband is added.

The pa'u queen is dressed toreador style — she stands while the dresser works her magic.

Shingle has learned that form-fitting riding breeches with suede patches on the inside of her calves and thighs are more functional and comfortable than jeans under her pa'u costume. She used two yards of velvet to make her top, a v-neck capelet.

Shingle has been riding every afternoon in preparation for the parade. In addition, she has been hitting the gym at the Windward YMCA, doing cardio and abdominal work to get in shape.

Being a pa'u rider is hard on the body. Once dressed in a pa'u costume, there is no way to go to the bathroom. It's a long haul, and many hours, from the dressing room to Kapi'olani Park.

Brenner always begins with a piece of ti leaf for good luck, tucked into the pa'u queen's bra or top.

Then the draping begins.

Once the queen is mounted on her horse, the pa'u skirt is carefully draped to cover her boots and stirrups. Of course, on parade day Royal to Royal will also be draped too — in masses of lei.

Brenner is such an experienced dresser that, if necessary, she can complete the entire costume in three minutes, Allen said.