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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, June 19, 2005

COVER STORY
Dads feted with an 'Early Evening Dinner'

Executive chef Maka Kwon shows two of his specialties: the tiger-eye tempura sushi and rack of lamb.

Photos by Randy T. Fujimori

Aaron's atop the Ala Moana

Where: 410 Atkinson Dr., 36th floor, Ala Moana Hotel

Call: 955-4466

Hours: Dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m. Live music and dancing are featured Fridays and Saturdays from 9:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.

Parking: Validated

Note: The "Early Evening Dinner" special is available nightly from 5:30 to 6:30. The special will be available tonight for Father's Day.

When it comes to his philosophy of cooking, George Gomes described it as "old school with new rules."

"It's keeping classic dishes, but using new products," said Gomes, corporate executive chef for Tri-Star Restaurant Group, which owns and operates Aaron's atop the Ala Moana, Sarento's Top of the "I," Sarento's on the Beach and Nick's Fishmarket on Maui. "People know us for certain dishes so we try not to get too crazy up here."

Although he's based on Maui, Gomes frequently flies over to Oahu to check on the quality of the food and morale of the staff at Aaron's.

"And I talk to Maka (Kwon, Aaron's executive chef) every day," Gomes said. "We cover everything from A to Z, from nightly specials to available products."

"I went to his school of hard knocks in Maui for a year," Kwon quipped. "He taught me a lot about cooking. And, I wouldn't be here without him.

Apparently, the lessons were well learned. Kwon has taken those hard knocks and punched back. Today, this young, up-and-coming chef now stands tall at the helm of Aaron's kitchen, where he features a nightly "Early Evening Dinner" special, available from 5:30 to 6:30. (This menu will be available tonight for Father's Day.)

"Now that the days are longer, people have a chance to see the sunset while having dinner here," said general manager Al Souza. "And with this view and the three-course menu, you can't beat this experience."

Nor can you beat the $26.95 price tag, which includes a choice of appetizer, entree and a dessert selection from either the rich New York-style cheesecake or creamy vanilla bean ice cream presented in a tulip cup.

Appetizer options include soup du jour; Sarento's-style Caesar salad garnished with homemade roasted garlic croutons; calamari fritti dipped in either a garlic-and-mustard aioli or spicy cocktail sauce; smoked salmon served with grain mustard, sweet Kula onions and capers; and Nick's classic salad, prepared with fresh greens and drizzled with a cream spinach dressing.

Corporate chef George Gomes credits his staff for Aaron's success.
"This is a good example of that old-meets-new philosophy we exercise up here," Gomes said. "This is an old-time favorite that we've modernized by using local greens and bay shrimp."

Another longtime favorite — and one of the four available entrees during the early dinner — is the beef filet ala "Lexi," which is topped with Boursin cheese and served with mashed potatoes and portobello mushrooms.

The other three selections feature Aaron's catch of the day, blackened "Double" pork chop enhanced with a pineapple marmalade, and chicken piccata topped with a lemon-butter-caper sauce.

"We do what we can do, and do it as best as we can," Gomes said. "This is a commitment that the entire staff has and I can't tell you how good of a job they're doing."