While a handful of restaurants can claim to have "beachfront" dining, only at Cabanas will guests truly be dining on the beach. And I do mean, "on the beach."

Bedouin-like tents are staked in the sand, and canvas drapes are pulled back to allow for maximum exposure to the tradewinds, dipping sun and twinkling stars.

Cabanas is undoubtedly a romantic oasis. And as impressive as the scenery may be, the cuisine here is equally flawless.

Chefs, G.B. and I learned, were in the midst of changing to a summer menu.

Spinach salad dressed with grilled peaches and seasonal beans, and Waimanalo mixed greens garnished with melons and prosciutto both sounded refreshing. The grilled Mediterranean beef skewers and chili-rubbed jumbo shrimp skewers were also tempting.

But G.B. couldn't resist the oysters on the half shell ($20) and my mouth watered for the chilled Hauula tomato soup ($12).

Without even asking, our server automatically came out with extra plates and cutlery, much to the delight of G.B., who was looking forward to trying my soup as much as she was digging into her oysters.

Presented on a bed of sea salt, the half dozen oysters were enhanced with a fruity mango mignonette, the sweet flavor of which was slightly offset by a zingy Bloody Mary cocktail sauce. G.B. waxed poetic about the grilled oysters and rolled her eyes each time she separated the meat from the shell.

Surprisingly, my cold soup came out in two parts. The first bowl offered a mound of diced avocado and scallop, and the second contained the soup itself. Our server finished the dish tableside by pouring the soup over the avocado and scallop.

My first spoonful was pure pleasure. The soup wasn't taste-bud-numbing cold. Instead, like a good bottle of red wine, this one was served at room temperature, allowing for the essence and bouquet of the Hauula tomatoes to come out. The pieces of avocado added complementary flavor, color and texture. It was lish!

(Be warned, this soup — like most other dishes here — are enough for two.)

After devouring our appetizers, we snacked on the breadsticks, which were accompanied by two spreads. Our favorite was the mango-chutney butter that I could have just eaten on its own as if it was a dollop of yogurt.

Having carefully examined the list of entrees, I narrowed my selection between the grilled rib-eye steak ($44) and the Australian rack of lamb ($65). Both are new to the summer menu. G.B. whittled her choices down to the fresh fish of the day (market price) or the bacon-wrapped smoked chicken ($24).

I was sold on the rib eye for two reasons: the Cabanas spice rub piqued my palate and the rib eye is my favorite steak cut.

It would not disappoint. The dry rub wasn't too spicy and the meat was oh-so tender. A side of wild mushroom sauce was superfluous, given the spice-laden dry rub.

G.B. ordered the steamed onaga, which comes whole. She asked that it be poached in a vegetable — and not the usual lobster — broth, and filleted in the kitchen. Both requests were granted. (We were told that others also make similar demands.)

Flaky and tender, the onaga's delicate flavor required no sauce. The purer the better, in this case.