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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, June 26, 2005

BACKPAGE STORY
E & O takes diners on an exotic culinary tour

Keoni Craig tempts guests with the charsiu-style smoked mero and the Vietnamese eggless crépe.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

E & O Trading Company

Where: Ward Center, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd.

Call: 591-9555

Hours: Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and until 11:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays

Note: Live jazz is featured every Thursday night from 8:30.

Since opening in early March, E & O Trading Company has been compared to a variety of restaurants, from Indigo in Chinatown to P.F. Chang's on the Mainland.

And all have been misstated and inaccurate.

"We're not a fusion restaurant," asserted Kenwei Chong, one of E & O's general partners. "And we're not a Chinese place either."

What E & O Trading Company is a hip — and even "sexy," according to Chong — relatively new Honolulu eatery whose decor is as playful as its menu.

The exoticism of South East Asia comes alive throughout this former spot of A Pacific Cafe in Ward Center. Suspended umbrellas, red ballon-like lanterns, brick walls, bamboo stems and a lot of hardwood adorn the room.

"We wanted to bring a certain aesthetic that Hawaii doesn't have," Chong said. "There's no experience like this."

The menu here reads like a culinary-tour journal, with entries detailing dishes found in such faraway places as India, Indonesia, Vietnam, Thailand and Singapore.

"It's South East Asian grill fare," said manager Sean "Keoni" Craig. "We've got everything from naan (Indian flat bread) to Indonesian corn fritters."

The average check here runs between $17 and $18 for lunch, and $24 and $26 for dinner.

Resembling a raspberry-colored dessert, the "char siu-" style smoked mero ($18.95 for lunch and $22.95 for dinner) offers a substantial chunk of smoked sea bass fillet that's accompanied by Asian pickles and bok choy (Chinese mustard cabbage), the tartiness of which neutralizes the sweetness of the char siu flavor.

Interesting in texture is the Vietnamese crépe ($11.95), which is prepared sans eggs, making the thin pancake chewier than if it was prepared with eggs. Stuffed with oyster mushrooms, bean sprouts, green beans, carrots, onions and fresh mint, this crÆpe makes for a tasty and healthy vegetarian dish. (Truth be told, though, even non-vegetarians will appreciate all the flavors.)

"People can either order separate dishes or they can have them served family-style," Chong said. "We call this 'share all' and it's a great way to try a lot of different items on the menu."

Next to E & O's signature Indonesian-style corn fritters, two other must-tries include the Vietnames oxtail stew and the Saigon steak ($22.95), which is a charbroiled New York cut served with ginger-scallion rice cakes and vegetable brochette.

Although it's only presently available for dinner, this meaty entree may soon make its way to the lunch menu.

"The demand is there from our business clients," Chong said. "We're getting more and more requests for it for lunch."