Kinu's designs are an eclectic mix of kimono and traditional Japanese peasant clothing, with a hint of Issey Miyake innovation and an intimation of Junya Watanabe weirdness.

Tanaka, who lives six months in Fukuoka, Japan, and six months in Chiang Mai, Thailand, designs all her own fabrics and has them dyed and woven in Thailand. Her textiles are inspired by traditional kimono motifs. However, one of her favorite prints was sketched on her first trip to Hawai'i in 2003, when she became enchanted with the hibiscus.

Architect of apparel

Tanaka was an architect before she turned her talents to fashion design.

During a vacation to Chiang Mai in 1994, Tanaka was searching for the designer of a favorite silk scarf she had bought in Japan. She learned that the scarf's maker was actually in India, but her search led her to a manufacturer who could help her with textile dyeing and weaving, as well as one who could provide pattern making and sewing. Within a year, Kinu was born.

Kinu's silhouettes are carefully engineered for style and comfort. The architectural influence is clear in the unexpected juxtaposition of seams, bias cuts and asymmetrical hemlines to create interesting shapes. On the hanger a dress may look like a simple shift. On the body, it takes on a different life with interesting angles and flattering curves.

Details such as patchwork, hidden pockets, trapunto and appliques add pizzazz to the line, as well as helping to camouflage figure flaws.

Kinu comes in three different weights of cotton; Tanaka is bringing only her lightest ones here.

While Tanaka has traditionally favored a subtle palette of neutrals that are characteristically Japanese, this season she has added more color, with soft maroon, muted eggplant and taupe showing up in her prints on dresses, skirts, pants and accessories.

Future designs

Amy Higham of Kane'ohe models Kinu's logo print in a back tie top ($65) and balloon pants ($80)

While many fashion designers start with a couture, or high-end line, then add a bridge (less-expensive) line to attract a broader customer base, Kinu is going the other way around. In New York later this year, Tanaka will introduce Leela Vadee, a couture collection made of Thai silks combined with antique kimonos that will retail for $300 to $1,000.

When asked if, like many fashion designers, she has to work 90-hour weeks to produce seasonal collections, Tanaka flashed a huge dimpled smile. "No, I play 90 hours a week. For me, designing fashion is play, not work." She said that 11 years in Thailand have taught her to adopt the Thai motto "Mai pen rai," which is translated as "Everything is going to be OK" or "It doesn't matter."

Kinu designs are at Chelsea in Manoa, Nui Mono in Mo'ili'ili, Silver Moon in Hale'iwa, Tapestries at Ala Moana Center and Vue Hawai'i in the Kahala Mall. Prices range from $54 to $100.

When Tanaka conceptualizes and sketches a garment, she pictures it being worn in the context of a room. The lifestyle of the imaginary woman who lives in that room helps dictate the style, drape and details of the garment.